sustainable fashion research paper

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Making Fashion Sustainable: Waste and Collective Responsibility

Debbie moorhouse.

1 Department of Fashion & Textiles, University of Huddersfield, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK

Fashion is a growing industry, but the demand for cheap, fast fashion has a high environmental footprint. Some brands lead the way by innovating to reduce waste, improve recycling, and encourage upcycling. But if we are to make fashion more sustainable, consumers and industry must work together.

As the demand for apparel and shoes has increased worldwide, the fashion industry has experienced substantial growth. In the last 15 years, clothing production has doubled, accounting for 60% of all textile production. 1 One particular trend driving this increase is the emergence of fast fashion. The newest trends in celebrity culture and bespoke fashion shows rapidly become available from affordable retailers. In recent years, a designer’s fashion calendar can consist of up to five collections per year, and in the mass-produced market, new stock is being produced every 2 weeks. As with many commodities today, mass production and consumption are often accompanied by mass wastage, and fashion is no different.

In fashion, trends rapidly change, and a drive to buy the latest style can leave many items with a short lifespan and consigned to the waste bin. Given that 73% of clothing ends up in landfills and less than 1% is recycled into new clothing, there are significant costs with regard to not only irreplaceable resources but also the economy via landfilling clothing. At present, it is estimated that £140 million worth of clothing is sent to landfills in the UK each year. 2 Although a significant proportion of recycled fibers are downgraded into insulation materials, industrial wipes, and stuffing, they still constitute only 12% of total discarded material.

The world is increasingly worried about the environmental and social costs of fashion, particularly items that have short lifespans. Mass-produced fashion is often manufactured where labor is cheap, but working conditions can be poor. Sweatshops can even be found in countries with stricter regulations. The transport of products from places of manufacture to points of sale contributes to the textile industry’s rising carbon footprint; 1.2 billion metric tons of CO 2 were reportedly emitted in 2015. 1 Textile dyeing and finishing are thought to contribute to 20% of the world’s water pollution, 3 and microfiber emission during washing amounts to half a million metric tons of plastic pollution annually. 4 Fashion’s water footprint is particularly problematic. Water is used throughout clothing production, including in the growth of crops such as cotton and in the weaving, manufacturing, washing, and dyeing processes. The production of denim apparel alone uses over 5,000 L of water 5 for a single pair of jeans. When you add this to consumer overuse of water, chemicals, and energy in the laundry process and the ultimate discard to landfills or incineration, the environmental impact becomes extremely high.

As demand for fast fashion continues to grow, so too does the industry’s environmental footprint. Negative impacts are starkly evidenced throughout the entire supply chain—from the growth of raw materials to the disposal of scarcely used garments. As awareness of the darker side of fashion grows, so too does demand for change—not just from regulatory bodies and global action groups but also from individual consumers. People want ethical garments. Sustainability and style. But achieving this is complicated.

Demand for Sustainable Fashion

Historically, sustainable brands were sought by a smaller consumer base and were typically part of the stereotype “hippy” style. But in recent years, sustainable fashion has become more mainstream among both designers and consumers, and the aesthetic appeal has evolved to become more desirable to a wider audience. As a result, the consumer need not only buy into the ethics of the brand but also purchase a desirable, contemporary garment.

But the difficulty for the fashion industry lies in addressing all sustainability and ethical issues while remaining economically sustainable and future facing. Sustainable and ethical brands must take into account fairer wages, better working conditions, more sustainably produced materials, and a construction quality that is built for longevity, all of which ultimately increase the cost of the final product. The consumer often wrestles with many different considerations when making a purchase; some of these conflict with each other and can lead the consumer to prioritize the monetary cost.

Many buyers who place sustainability over fashion but cannot afford the higher cost of sustainable garments will often forsake the latest styles and trends to buy second hand. However, fashion and second-hand clothing need not be mutually exclusive, as can be seen by the growing trend of acquiring luxury vintage pieces. Vintage clothing is in direct contrast to the whole idea of “fast fashion” and is sought after as a way to express individuality with the added value of saving something precious from landfills. Where vintage might have once been purchased at an exclusive auction, now many online sources trade in vintage pieces. Celebrities, fashion influencers, and designers have all bought into this vintage trend, making it a very desirable pre-owned, pre-loved purchase. 6 In effect, the consumer mindset is changing such that vintage clothing (as a timeless, more considered purchase) is more desirable than new products because of its uniqueness, a virtue that stands against the standardization of mass-market production.

Making Fashion Circular

In an ideal system, the life cycle of a garment would be a series of circles such that the garment would continually move to the next life—redesigned, reinvented, and never discarded—eliminating the concept of waste. Although vintage is growing in popularity, this is only one component of a circular fashion industry, and the reality is that the linear system of “take, make, dispose,” with all its ethical and environmental problems, continues to persist.

Achieving sustainability in the production of garments represents a huge and complex challenge. It is often quoted that “more than 80% of the environmental impact of a product is determined at the design stage,” 7 meaning that designers are now being looked upon to solve the problem. But the responsibility should not solely lie with the designer; it should involve all stakeholders along the supply chain. Designers develop the concept, but the fashion industry also involves pattern cutters and garment technologists, as well as the manufacturers: both producers of textiles and factories where garment construction takes place. And finally, the consumer should not only dispose, reuse, or upcycle garments appropriately but also wash and care for the garment in a way that both is sustainable and ensures longevity of the item. These stakeholders must all work together to achieve a more sustainable supply chain.

The challenge of sustainability is particularly pertinent to denim, which, as already mentioned, is one of the more problematic fashion items. Traditionally an expression of individualism and freedom, denim jeans are produced globally at 1.7 billion pairs per year 8 through mass-market channels and mid-tier and premium designer levels, and this is set to rise. In the face of growing demand, some denim specialists are looking for ways to make their products more sustainable.

Reuse and recycling can play a role here, and designers and brands such as Levi Strauss & Co. and Mud Jeans are taking responsibility for the future life of their garments. They are offering take-back services, mending services, and possibilities for recycling to new fibers at end of life. Many brands have likewise embraced vintage fashion. Levi’s “Authorized Vintage” line, which includes upcycled, pre-worn vintage pieces, not only exemplifies conscious consumption but also makes this vintage trend more sought after by the consumer because of its iconic status. All material is sourced from the company’s own archive, and all redesigns “are a chance to relive our treasured history.” 9

Mud Jeans in particular is working toward a circular business model by taking a more considered, “seasonless” approach to their collections by instead focusing on longevity and pieces that transcend seasons. In addition, they offer a lease service where jeans can be returned for a different style and a return service at end of life for recycling into new fiber. The different elements that make up a garment, such as the base fabrics (denim in the case of Mud jeans) and fastenings, are limited so the company can avoid overstocking and reduce deadstock. 10 This model of keeping base materials to a minimum has been adopted by brands that don’t specialize in denim, such as Adidas’s production of a recyclable trainer made from virgin thermoplastic polyurethane. 11 The challenge with garments, as with footwear, is that they are made up of many different materials that are difficult to separate and sort for recycling. These business models have a long way to go to be truly circular, but some companies are paving the way forward, and their transparency is highly valuable to other companies that wish to follow suit.

Once a product is purchased, its future is in the hands of the consumer, and not all are aware of the recycling options available to them or that how they care for their garments can have environmental impacts. Companies are helping to inform them. In 2009, Levi Strauss & Co. introduced “Care Tag for Our Planet,” which gives straightforward washing instructions to save water and energy and guidance on how to donate the garment when it is no longer needed. Mud Jeans follows a similar process by highlighting the need to break the habit of regular unnecessary washing and even suggesting “air washing.” 10

At the same time, designers are moving away from the traditional seasonal production cycle and into a more seasonless calendar. In light of the coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic, Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, has announced (May 2020) that the Italian brand will end the traditional five fashion shows per year and will “hold shows just twice a year instead to reduce waste.” 12 This is a brave decision because it goes against the practice whereby designers were pressured for decades to produce more collections per year, but the hope is that it will be quickly followed by more brands and designers.

Transparency

The discussion around sustainable fashion practices has led to a growing demand from consumers for transparency in the supply chain and life cycle of fashion garments. Consumers want to be informed. They are skeptical of media hype and “greenwashing” by fast-fashion companies wanting to make their brand appear responsible. They want to know the origin of the product and its environmental and social impact.

Some companies are responding by seeking a better understanding of the environmental impacts of their products. In 2015, denim specializer Levi Strauss & Co. extensively analyzed the garment life cycle to consider the environmental impact of a core set of products from its range. The areas highlighted for greatest water usage and negative environmental impact were textile production and consumer laundry care; the consumer phase alone consumed 37% of energy, 13 fiber and textile production accounted for 36% of energy usage, and the remaining 27% was spent on garment production, transport, logistics, and packaging. 14 This life-cycle analysis has led to innovation in waterless finishing processes that use 96% less water than traditional fabric finishing. 15 As noted previously, transparency here also inspires the wider industry to do likewise. Other companies have also introduced dyeing processes that need much less water, and much work is focused on improving textile recycling.

But this discussion does not just apply to production. Some high-street brands are using a “take back” scheme whereby customers are invited to bring back unwanted clothing either for a discount on future purchases or as a way to offload unwanted items of clothing. Not only might this encourage consumers to buy more without feeling guilty, but the ultimate destination of these returned garments can also be unclear. Without further transparency, a consumer cannot make fully informed decisions about the end-of-life fate of their garments.

Collective Responsibility

The buck should not be passed when it comes to sustainability; it is about collective responsibility. Professionals in the fashion industry often feel that it is in the hands of the consumer—they have the buying power, and their choices determine how the industry reacts. One train of thought is that the consumer needs to buy less and that the fashion retail industry can’t be asked to sell less. However, if a sustainable life cycle is to be achieved, stakeholders within the cycle must also be accountable, and there are growing demands for the fashion industry to be regulated.

With the global demand for new clothing, there is an urgent need to discover new materials and to find new markets for used clothing. At present, garments that last longer reduce production and processing impacts, and designers and brands can make efforts in the reuse and recycling of clothing. But environmental impact will remain high if large quantities of new clothing continue to be bought.

If we want a future sustainable fashion industry, both consumers and industry professionals must engage. Although greater transparency and sustainability are being pursued and certain brands are leading the way, the overconsumption of clothing is so established in society that it is difficult to say how this can be reversed or slowed. Moreover, millions of livelihoods depend on this constant cycle of fashion production. Methods in the recycling, upcycling, reuse, and remanufacture of apparel and textiles are short-term gains, and the real impact will come from creating new circular business models that account for the life cycle of a garment and design in the initial concept. If we want to maximize the value from each item of clothing, giving them second, third, and fourth lives is essential.

Acknowledgments

Thank you for support, in writing this Commentary, to Dr. Rina Arya, Professor of Visual Culture and Theory at the School of Art, Design, and Architecture of the University of Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK.

Declaration of Interests

The author is the co-founder of the International Society for Sustainable Fashion.

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Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion industries

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• Published: 10 February 2023
• Volume 26 , pages 2837–2864, ( 2024 )

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• Stefano Abbate 1 ,
• Piera Centobelli   ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0002-3302-2236 1 ,
• Roberto Cerchione 2 ,
• Simon Peter Nadeem 3 &
• Emanuela Riccio 2  

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Textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industries contribute significantly to global environmental pollution at every point of the supply chain. Clothing manufacturing and transportation produce a large volume of waste and high greenhouse gas emissions, often taking advantage of cheap labor in developing countries. As a result, stakeholders are becoming more aware of the effect of the textile, apparel, and fashion industries on the climate and human rights, thus pushing businesses to mitigate their environmental damage. This paper offers a systematic literature review of sustainability trends in the TAF industries in the last 20 years. Bibliometric tools are also used to support the content analysis of the papers. The findings reveal three primary research areas in the TAF context: consumers’ behaviour towards sustainable clothing, circular economy initiatives, and sustainability challenges across the whole supply chain. As a result, this study highlights literature gaps and provides future research suggestions for each identified research cluster. In addition, drivers and barriers to implementing corporate social responsibility and circular economy practices are identified. Consequently, this study will help researchers and academicians work in this area to identify unexplored sub-fields, which reflect some potential investigation areas for expanding scientific literature on the topic. Finally, this study supports practitioners and managers in exploring the main research themes addressed in the scientific field, providing knowledge to improve and align business models with current sustainability trends.

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1 Introduction

The production and consumption of clothes have consistently increased over the past few decades due to rapid population growth, increasing global incomes, and higher living standards (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). Rather than evaluating how design and production can incorporate consumer desires and sustainability, clothes are engineered and manufactured for rapid trend turnovers via obsolescence and early disposal, allowing for fast income (Kozlowski et al., 2018 ). This type of business model makes textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industries among the most polluting in the world (Grazzini et al., 2021 ), generating a huge volume of clothing waste (Chan et al., 2020 ). Indeed, less than 1% of all textiles are recycled back into clothes, 25% of textile waste is reused or recycled, and 75% of textile trash is disposed of in landfills globally (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017 ). In terms of water consumption, the fashion industry ranks second globally (Paździor et al., 2017 ). In addition, the natural ecosystem suffers greatly from the dispersion into the environment of coloured effluents and microplastics, which occurs mainly in the clothing production and disposal stages (Liu et al., 2021 ; Sadeghi-Kiakhani et al., 2021 ). The COVID-19 pandemic has increased this phenomenon: the management of recently emerging wastes, often known as "COVID wastes," including cloth facemasks, is causing growing concern due to the release of microplastics into the environment (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2022 ). A potential solution to reduce the environmental consequences of cloth facemasks is using natural and biodegradable polymers for their production, such as wood-based polymers (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2022 ). In addition, textile waste can be repurposed for different applications. For instance, they can be used as a renewable source to produce thermal energy (Nunes et al., 2018 ). Pyrolysis is a desirable substitute for incineration in the treatment of textile waste to increase the economic benefits (Yousef et al., 2019 ). In addition, cotton waste can be a perfect material for creating high-performance catalysts and removing pollutants from the environment due to its natural state and affordability (Fakhrhoseini et al., 2020 ; Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2019 ). Finally, different reusing and recycling methods for managing textile waste can be employed, such as anaerobic digestion, fermentation, composting, and fibre regeneration (Juanga-Labayen et al., 2022 ).

Furthermore, TAF industries account for eight to ten percentage of global greenhouse gas emissions (Shrivastava et al., 2021 ), recognised as the leading cause of global warming, those effects in nature create floods, droughts, hurricanes, and sea-level rise, which are becoming more common in daily life (Mishra et al., 2021 ). As a result, governments and institutions led to the Paris Agreement on climate change in December 2015, where 195 countries have committed to keeping the temperature rise below 2 °C (Doukas et al., 2018 ). Furthermore, fashion companies often entrust the transformation process of raw materials into finished clothing to developing countries, significantly affecting their social sustainability (Chan et al., 2020 ). Consequently, in addition to issues concerning carbon emissions, water consumption, and waste disposal, another major problem of the fashion industry is the overuse of employees working in outsourced production units in countries with unsafe work environments and lower labour costs (Shrivastava et al., 2021 ). According to the triple bottom line (TBL) framework, which was coined by Elkington, ( 1998 ), the performance of an apparel company should be thus measured taking into account three dimensions: economic, environmental, and social. Further, these three dimensions should be balanced, rather than just seeing economic factors as a means for society (Weisenfeld & Hauerwaas, 2018 ). However, in long and fragmented supply chains like apparel, harmonising these three dimensions entails difficult commitment and cooperation from different actors (Bubicz et al., 2021 ; Freise & Seuring, 2015 ; Huq et al., 2016 ). The longer and more complex the chain becomes, the less contact there is between the different stakeholders, and monitoring of compliance with codes of behaviour becomes more complex (Bubicz et al., 2021 ; Egels-Zandén et al., 2015 ; Macchion et al., 2015 ; Sardar et al., 2016 ; Taylor, 2011 ; Wilhelm et al., 2016 ). Government regulatory pressures are continuously coercing businesses to implement substantial changes at the technological, material, organisational, economic, and socio-cultural levels (Kivimaa et al., 2019 ). Further, in 2015, United Nations launched the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), characterised by 17 global goals and 169 targets, which aim to encourage all countries to prioritise environmental sustainability, social inclusion, and economic development (United Nations, 2015 ). These goals demonstrate the severity and scope of today's sustainability issues (Sauermann et al., 2020 ). Therefore, in order to achieve the SDGs, fashion companies must improve their corporate social responsibility (CSR) commitment in diverse areas, promoting more sustainable production and consumption models (SDG12), reducing water consumption (SDG6), and ensuring decent working conditions (SDG8).

As a result of these concerns and due to the growing interest in the United Nations SDGs, in recent years TAF industries are more prone to pay attention to sustainability issues (Islam et al., 2020 ; Kabir et al., 2019 ). TAF industries have been establishing initiatives considering eco-efficiency concepts and aspiring to implement environmental practices, including sustainability reporting activities (Muñoz-Torres et al., 2021 ), which generate, in turn, cost savings (Lucato et al., 2017 ). Improving resource efficiency by extending the useful life of products or services is one way to promote sustainable development through a more circular economy (Rainville, 2021 ). In this context, the product-as-a-service model, or rental model, is often associated with a number of advantages, including a decrease in the environmental impact, an improvement in competitiveness, and an increase in user value (Monticelli & Costamagna, 2022 ). Further, companies operating in TAF industries are looking for creative and innovative ways to keep their carbon emissions low and minimise waste (Kozlowski et al., 2018 ), an example is the use of biodegradable and recycled raw materials (Wang et al., 2019 ). Likewise, consumers are now becoming more aware of the ethical issues of the goods they purchase, and as a result, they are changing their shopping habits (De Angelis et al., 2017 ; Gershoff & Frels, 2015 ; Grazzini et al., 2021 ), thus pushing fashion industry to become eco-friendly.

Given the increasing attention on the topic, different researchers conducted literature reviews on sustainability in the fashion industry from diverse points of view. Notably, Koeksal et al. ( 2017 ) focused on social aspects in textile/apparel sustainable supply chain management (SSCM). Paras and Pal ( 2018 ) reviewed the literature to establish and suggest a theoretical framework for a reuse-based clothing value chain. Koszewska ( 2018 ) identified the textile sector's challenges in adapting to the circular economy (CE) model. Dordevic et al. ( 2019 ) reviewed different CSR theories and methods used in the textile/apparel industry. Wagner and Heinzel ( 2020 ) analysed the literature on CE in the fashion industry, focusing on consumer behaviours concerning the sustainable purchase, usage, consumption, and disposal. Islam et al. ( 2020 ) summarised the primary environmentally friendly practices adopted by TAF industries. Jia et al. ( 2020 ) identified drivers, barriers, strategies, and performance measures for the CE in the fashion industry. Finally, Ki et al. ( 2021 ) reviewed the literature to provide a theoretical framework that offers a detailed explanation of how fashion companies can achieve circularity by involving external stakeholders in their activities.

Based on the above premises, in the scientific literature, there is a lack of literature reviews that offers a holistic understanding of sustainability issues in the TAF industries and evaluates research advances and trends on the topic to benefit multiple stakeholders. This paper aims to overcome these research gaps with a comprehensive overview of sustainability trends in the TAF manufacturing context. In addition, this research highlights both CSR and CE principles, supporting academicians, policymakers, practitioners, and other decision-makers in exploring the main research themes addressed in the scientific field. This paper is expected to contribute to the literature in the following ways. First, this study addresses the research gaps by offering a holistic perspective of a study area that is rapidly expanding. Second, this research combines the review process with bibliometric techniques. Although the growing interest in the research field, these approaches have not yet been adopted to explore sustainability progress in the TAF industries. Third, drivers and barriers to implementing CSR and CE practices are identified. Notably, CE is a production and consumption model that aims to extend products’ useful lives by helping to minimise waste, while CSR is often described as corporate practices that address economic, social, and environmental issues to benefit citizens, communities, and societies. The proposed taxonomy could be a reference point for further empirical studies. Finally, this article develops a conceptual model based on the extracted research clusters that integrate previous research findings, highlight research gaps, and offers guidance and potential avenues for further research to fill in the literature gaps.

After this introduction, Sect.  2 describes the review methodology adopted. Section  3 shows the data collection and selection phase. Sections  4 and Sect.  5 highlight descriptive and content analysis of the articles. Section  6 reports research discussions and provides a detailed research agenda. Finally, Sect.  7 presents conclusions and implications, highlighting theoretical and managerial contributions, as well as the research policy implication.

2 Review methodology

This study presents a systematic literature review adapted by Greenhalgh ( 1997 ), Cerchione and Esposito ( 2016 ), and Centobelli et al. ( 2017 ). Therefore, according to these contributions, we structured the literature review into two primary phases:

Data collection and selection: this phase includes identifying keywords and the search string, choosing the academic database (e.g. Scopus and Web of Science) to retrieve documents, and defining the inclusion/exclusion criteria to obtain papers focused on the research topic examined

Descriptive and content analysis phase: this phase includes conducting descriptive statistics (e.g. papers over time and articles by methodology) and an in-depth content analysis of the selected papers, aiming at identifying research gaps and providing a research agenda for further investigation.

Furthermore, we applied bibliometric methods to support the content analysis phase (van der Have & Rubalcaba, 2016 ). Notably, bibliometric techniques represent powerful tools to analyse scientific literature in a specific research field quantitatively (Ji et al., 2018 ; Zhi & Ji, 2012 ). One of the primary bibliometric methods is science mapping (Dzikowski, 2018 ) and it was used to discover the research field structure of a given topic (Cancino et al., 2017 ; Merigó et al., 2017 ; Shashi et al., 2021 ). This analysis can be implemented through numerous computer software. In this paper, we used VOSviewer software to build and visualise co-occurrence networks of keywords and paper terms, showing the main topics studied and suggestions for future research (Liboni et al., 2019 ). In particular, the co-occurrence analysis of keywords is an effective method for identifying research themes since it helps analyse the paper's content and assess the co-occurrence relationship between different concepts (Shashi et al., 2020a , 2020b ). Furthermore, the co-occurrence network of abstract terms is used to show research clusters based on recurrent terms that appear together (Liboni et al., 2019 ). According to van der Have and Rubalcaba ( 2016 ), the higher the frequency that keywords and paper terms co-occur, the stronger they are linked because they belong to a similar research sub-area. Thus, we aim to overcome this lack by offering a comprehensive literature review. Figure  1 synthesises the steps of the proposed literature review methodology.

Literature review methodology

3 Data collection and selection

The sample of articles was retrieved from the ISI Web of Science (WoS) database. More specifically, the WoS Core Collection was used in this study. Due to the high quality and extensive background coverage, the WoS database has traditionally been used as the primary source for literature reviews (Alon et al., 2018 ; Bahoo et al., 2020 ; Cao & Alon, 2020 ). Moreover, WoS is considered a leading data source compared to other scholarly research databases (e.g. Scopus and Google Scholar) since it only contains selective journals (Shashi et al., 2020b ). More precisely, WoS includes over 15,000 high-quality journals and 50,000,000 papers, organised into 251 categories and 150 research topics (Gaviria-Marin et al., 2019 ; Shashi et al., 2020a ).

After a brainstorming process among five researchers, a list of keywords was identified to carry out a systematic search and find articles regarding the issue of sustainability in the TAF industries. Further, the list of keywords was refined from time to time by including the keywords of the papers found previously. Finally, the following search string was used:

("textile industr*" OR "textile sector*" OR “clothing” OR “clothes” OR “garment” OR “fashion” OR “apparel”) AND (“green” OR "environmental performance" OR "financial performance" OR "social performance" OR “green” OR "economic* performance" OR "environmental benefit*" OR "financial benefit*" OR "economic* benefit*" OR "social benefit*" OR "ethical" OR "SDG*" OR "sustainable development" OR "corporate social responsibility" OR "triple bottom line" OR "environment-friendly" OR "eco-friendly" OR "circular economy" OR “reuse” OR "re-use" OR “recycling” OR "life cycle assessment" OR "life cycle analysis" OR “LCA” OR (“sustainab*”)) AND (“environment*” OR “economic*” OR “social”). We retrieved only documents that contain those terms in the title to circumscribe the research and identify only relevant outputs on the topic investigated.

To perform bibliometric analyses, we downloaded the full record and cited references of scholarly articles in the Web of Science Core Collection (Kern et al., 2019 ). The sample of 563 documents was retrieved in October 2022. We used different filters to refine our analysis. First, we chose to not consider papers published before 2000 due to the actuality of the topic (Desore & Narula, 2018 ) and we aim to conduct a review of the last two decades. Second, we collected only papers written in the English language (Shashi et al., 2020a , 2020b ). Subsequently, to ensure the sources’ quality, we decided to select only articles and reviews published in peer-reviewed journals, thus excluding other types of sources such as conference proceedings and book series (Shashi et al., 2020b ). As a result, 406 papers were collected.

Furthermore, according to the method suggested by Pittaway et al. ( 2004 ), we carefully checked the abstracts of all the selected papers so that only those studies whose abstracts focus on sustainability in the TAF industries were selected. To avoid subjective decisions, two researchers read the abstracts of the articles in parallel, with the intervention of a third researcher in case of uncertainty (Cerchione & Esposito, 2016 ). Thus, as also displayed in Table 1 , the papers were divided into the following two lists: list A includes documents whose abstract focuses on sustainability in the TAF industries and list B includes documents whose abstract focuses on technical and context-specific aspects of sustainability (e.g. processing, atmospheric emissions due to production waste, the chemistry of eco-sustainable fabrics)

The articles contained in list B (213) were excluded as beyond the scope of the research. The full text of the 193 articles included in list A were thoroughly examined and subjected to the last exclusion criterion. Also, in this case, two researchers read the papers in parallel, plus a third one in case of doubt (Cerchione & Esposito, 2016 ). In this step, we excluded 32 documents not related to the research topic. To identify the remaining potentially important studies in our set, we used the 'snowball' strategy as an inclusion criterion (Greenhalgh & Peacock, 2005 ). We included 17 additional publications, and the final sample thus consists of 178 papers.

4 Descriptive analysis

The purpose of the descriptive analysis is to provide a general view of the papers on sustainability in the TAF industries. For the evaluation of the 178 papers selected, four viewpoints were identified: 1) distribution of papers over time; 2) distribution of papers across journals; 3) distribution of papers by methodology; and 4) distribution of papers by country.

4.1 Distribution of papers over time

Figure  2 shows the distribution of the selected papers published between 2000 and 2022. The number of papers written has grown exponentially, reaching a maximum of 38 in 2021. The data collection was conducted in October 2022. According to this analysis, in the last five years, research on sustainability in TAF industries has grown significantly. Indeed, approximately 85% of the papers examined were written between 2017 and October-2022.

Papers over time

4.2 Distribution of papers across journals

The journals that published at least three papers on sustainability in the TAF industries from 2000 to October 2022 are classified in Fig.  3 . The top journals publishing on the research topic have a broader scope and belong to different areas, confirming that the analysis of sustainability issues in the TAF industries have grown over the years in a broader range. In particular, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management (14), followed by Journal of Cleaner Production (9), International Journal of Consumer Studies (7), Journal of Business Research (6), and Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management (6), Journal of Business Ethics (3), Business Strategy and the Environment (3), and Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics (3). According to the SCImago Journal Rank (SJR) updated to the year 2020, used to determine each journal's scientific importance, all of the journals displayed in Fig.  3 are in the first quartile (Q1), except for Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics and International Journal of Consumer Studies , which are in the second quartile (Q2).

Papers published per journal

4.3 Distribution of papers by methodology

The distribution of papers by methodology represented in Fig.  4 shows that about 50% of the studies are based on quantitative approaches (e.g. surveys and mathematical models), while 23% of the papers use qualitative approaches (e.g. single and multiple case studies). A few other papers use conceptual approaches, literature review approaches, and mixed approaches (combining qualitative and quantitative methods).

Papers by methodology

4.4 Distribution of papers by country

This analysis highlights the most productive countries in the research field investigated. Notably, certain papers were co-authored by researchers from different countries, while authors from the same nationality co-authored others. The country of each researcher who co-authored the article is counted in the first situation. On the contrary, the country is only counted once, even if two or more researchers from the same country co-authored the paper. As shown in Fig.  5 , USA is at the top of the ranking with 35 publications, followed by the UK (26), and China (25).

Papers by country

5 Content analysis

5.1 keywords analysis.

This analysis found 833 different keywords in the sample of 178 papers. The research focused on keywords that had at least eight repetitions (Liboni et al., 2019 ). Consequently, a total of 25 unique keywords were chosen (Fig.  6 ). In particular, the keyword “sustainability” emerged as the most recurrent with 45 repetitions, followed by “consumption” (26), “circular economy” (24), “fashion” (23), and “corporate social responsibility” (20).

Co-occurrence analysis of keywords

“Appendix 1 " highlights the 20 most cited keywords and their total link strength. The most frequent keywords offer an in-depth understanding of the critical topics investigated. Furthermore, the keyword sustainability is strongly linked with the others, and its relationship with "fast fashion", "supply chain", and "consumption" highlights that scientific literature in the TAF domain is extensively focused on studying more sustainable business models which can reduce the environmental footprint in all the phases of the supply chain. The term “fast fashion” refers to a business model defined by constant shift, innovation, affordability, and disposable patterns concerning low-cost apparel products that replicate existing luxury fashion trends (Joy et al., 2012 ). Diverse scientific studies have confirmed that fast fashion's disposal nature leads to serious environmental, health, social, and economic issues (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). As a result, various alternative business models have been developed. For instance, the clothing product-service system (PSS) recognises various sustainability targets as an alternative to the effects of consumption and fast fashion (Johnson & Plepys, 2021 ). This business model is based on rental rather than purchase, allowing to extend the useful life of a garment and reduce waste. Thus, PSS shifts the emphasis to complementary service offerings, which dematerialises and decouples consumer loyalty from material use (Adam et al., 2017 ). Another primary problem for fashion companies' is the supply chain length and complexity, causing coordination and sustainability concerns. According to Carlson and Bitsch ( 2018 ), a sustainable supply chain is a crucial element for industry, government, and civil society. Recent research highlights that fashion retailers often engage procurement intermediaries to handle their international sourcing with suppliers from manufacturers operating in developing countries, improving coordination and transparency (Koeksal et al., 2018 ).

5.2 Cluster analysis based on abstract terms

In our sample of articles, the co-occurrence analysis of abstract terms has shown 3657 different recurrent words. However, we selected only terms with at least nine repetitions and just 27 terms resulted in the analysis (Liboni et al., 2019 ). Figure  7 displays its network visualisation. “Appendix 2 ” highlights the 20 most recurrent abstract terms and their relevance score. Using VOSviewer, we divided the abstract terms into three different research clusters:

Cluster 1: consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption

Cluster 2: circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries

Cluster 3: impact of sustainability initiatives on corporate performance.

Co-occurrence network of abstract terms

5.2.1 Consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption

This cluster is focused on sustainable clothing consumption through the lens of consumer behaviour. The consumer's vision of eco-sustainable clothing is a central theme in the literature on TAF industries. The previously reserved attention for an elite audience is now directed to an increasingly widespread profile of evolved consumers who are more interested in the origin of what they buy and the traceability of the supply chain. Therefore, the customer plays a crucial role in the sustainable context, so it is vital to understand his point of view towards eco-sustainable, recycled, or used products. The majority of contributions included in this cluster are surveys, in which the relationship between the constructs was tested chiefly through structural equation modelling (SEM). In light of the theory of planned behaviour, most of these studies investigate the factors influencing sustainable apparel purchase intention (e.g. Dhir et al., 2021 ; Hwang et al., 2020 ; Kang et al., 2013 ; Karaosman et al., 2015 ; Nguyen et al., 2019 ; Sobuj et al., 2021 ; Zhao et al., 2019 ), revealing that sustainable clothing buying is positively correlated with different antecedents, such as green confidence, environmental awareness, social media usage, environmental attitude, labelling satisfaction, subjective norms, and perceived behavioural regulation. Other studies focused specifically on the young generations. For example, Varshneya et al. ( 2017 ) surveyed young consumers to explore how green consumption principles and social influence affect buying organic clothing. In particular, using a multinominal logit model, Rothenberg and Matthews ( 2017 ) determined the primary factors influencing young consumers to buy eco-friendly t-shirts. The findings suggest that consumers prioritised price, followed by the location of production, and finally, sustainability issues. Other studies analysed the existing attitude-behaviour gap and examined consumers' barriers to buying green clothing (Jacobs et al., 2018 ; Wiederhold & Martinez, 2018 ). Finally, Byrd and Su ( 2020 ) surveyed 399 US consumers to discover how they feel about apparel brands and how they behave when it comes to environmentally friendly, affordable, and socially conscious clothing. Further research focused on the motivations for using sharing economy platforms (Lee & Huang, 2020 ; Ek Styvén and Mariani, 2020 ), indicating that consumers' intentions to use online fashion rental services were positively affected by different factors, such as behaviours, subjective norms, perceived environmental sustainability, economic motivation, and distance from the consumption system. On another note, Silva et al. ( 2021 ) revealed that social shame and consumers' lack of knowledge about available outlets are the factors that most negatively affect the purchasing of second-hand clothing.

Moreover, many studies examined recycled and reused products from various perspectives. Some researchers investigated how consumers handle their apparel waste, including reselling, swapping, taking back, and donating (Lai & Chang, 2020 ; Weber et al., 2020 ), highlighting that environmental principles and prosocial attitudes affected customers' decisions to donate clothes. Other studies surveyed random samples to investigate consumer recycling and reusing apparel behaviour (Paco et al., 2021 ; Zurga et al., 2015 ). Further, Park and Lin ( 2020 ) examined the discrepancy between purchasing purpose and purchase experience in recycled and upcycled fashion items. Other studies focused on behaviour intentions for the consumption of reused clothing, recycled clothes, and upcycled garments (Chaturvedi et al., 2020 ; Kim et al., 2021 ). Notably, Meng and Leary ( 2021 ) explored consumer perception concerning the transformation of recycled bottles into new clothes. Consumers perceive this practice negatively for hygienic reasons, reducing purchasing intent. Finally, Cruz-Cardenas et al. ( 2019 ) conducted a multiple case study based on 20 thorough interviews followed by a survey of 425 consumers to investigate the factors affecting clothing reuse, highlighting different antecedents, such as income and altruism.

5.2.2 Circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries

This cluster concerns CE and CSR issues in the TAF industries. Unlike the previous one, this cluster includes many explorative studies since the CE and CSR implementation is still in its early stages, necessitating a more detailed understanding based on qualitative analysis (Colucci & Vecchi, 2021 ). In particular, the CE principles significantly improve sustainability in the way textile products are fabricated, consumed and disposed of (Staicu & Pop, 2018 ). Different frameworks have been developed to help fashion companies transition from a linear to a CE model (e.g. Mishra et al., 2021 ). Indeed, several critical factors need to be explored for developing a circular product in the textile industry context, such as sustainable product design and reverse logistics (Franco, 2017 ). Concepts such as repairability, recyclability, longevity, and reuse and disposal of products are much debated in the literature. Although they are still at the early stages, different methods for reusing, recycling, and regenerating textile waste as well as various technological innovations and plans for a circular textile economy have been developed (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). In this regard, Moazzem et al. ( 2021 ) used the life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology to evaluate environmental benefits due to different textile waste recycling opportunities. The findings show that cleaning wipes recycling has the most significant impact benefits, followed by cotton fibre, insulation material, and polyester raw material recycling. Sandvik and Stubbs ( 2019 ) conducted a multiple case study based on semi-structured interviews to determine drivers and barriers to implementing a textile-to-textile recycling technology in the Scandinavian fashion industry. Restricted technology (which makes separating materials difficult), high research and development costs, and the supply chain complexity (which includes many stakeholders involved in the manufacture), represent the key barriers. Simultaneously, the design and use of new fabrics and increased apparel collection and collaboration are the main drivers.

Furthermore, many studies used a case study approach to investigate the challenges and solutions that fashion brands face while developing and testing CE strategies within their current business models (Kant Hvass & Pedersen, 2019 ; Colucci & Vecchi, 2021 ). The findings show that fashion companies face several obstacles in implementing circular business models in their organisations, including divergent perspectives of value and undefined performance metrics, weak alignment with the current strategy, a lack of internal skills and competencies, and a lack of customer interest. Further, Paras et al. ( 2018 ) conducted a multiple case study based on semi-structured interviews with Swedish companies to explore the reuse-based clothing value chain drivers. The results suggest that the main drivers are corporate factors (system, legislation, and awareness), product features (design, quality and price), and consumer attitude (donor and purchaser).

Other studies focused on the slow fashion movement. According to Onur ( 2020 ), the slow fashion movement believes that the fashion industry should not continue operating in the same way it has in the past, putting the world’s finite resources at risk. As a result, the author offered a detailed account of creating new learning methods and designing via upcycling, craft, and collaboration in developing countries. For instance, Friedrich ( 2021 ) investigated the potential of applying biobased products in the textile industry, making the economy more sustainable and lowering the dependence on synthetic materials. Tama et al. ( 2017 ) surveyed Turkish university students to investigate clothing awareness and attitudes regarding environmental sustainability and slow fashion, and the findings highlighted a lack of knowledge about the slow fashion paradigm.

Moreover, some of the studies analysed circular business models based on clothing swapping, PSSs, and collaborative fashion consumption (CFC). Notably, clothing swapping is an example of a circular solution that allows extending the useful life of a product (Camacho-Otero et al., 2020 ), while the CFC is an economic model focused on clothing sharing, second-hand purchases, and renting or leasing (Zamani et al., 2018 ). Compared to a traditional ownership-based consumption model, the CFC offers environmental benefits due to the extension of the clothes’ useful life. On another note, Bech et al. ( 2019 ) used the LCA approach to assess and compare a PSS business model’s environmental impact on t-shirts and a reference business model.

Furthermore, different studies used the multiple case study design to examine CSR strategies’ drivers and barriers (Govindasamy & Suresh, 2018 ; Guedes et al., 2017 ; Koeksal & Straehle, 2021 ; Van & Nguyen, 2019 ), showing that the main drivers are the competitive context, the social influences, the managers’ knowledge of CSR, the company’s internal culture, as well as market promotion and building a reputation with stakeholders and the government. Additionally, the most significant obstacles were a lack of resources in expertise, information, finance, and training, as well as the cost of CSR initiatives and internal and external communication. Further obstacles were the complexity of the green process and system design, as well as the lack of regulatory support (Majumdar & Sinha, 2018 ).

5.2.3 Impact of sustainability initiatives on corporate performance

The studies of this cluster investigated how different sustainable initiatives affect corporate performance (Chan et al., 2020 ; Saha et al., 2021 ; Sudusinghe & Seuring, 2020 ; Wong & Ngai, 2021 ; Yang & Jang, 2020 ). In particular, Ali et al. ( 2020 ) revealed that fashion companies that successfully implemented ISO 14001 environmental management system (EMS) reported substantial efficiency improvements compared to companies that have not yet EMS.

Specifically, some studies focused on the sustainable supply chain, which is achieved when the objectives are shared by all the actors involved. This entails reconsidering production flows, operations, and materials, limiting the polluting effects that flow into the environment, limiting production waste, extending the life cycle of the products, and improving social conditions. Kumar et al. ( 2020 ) used the Delphi-based fuzzy Analytical Hierarchy Process approach to identify long-term factors for implementing social responsibility-based sourcing in the ready-made apparel supply chain in Bangladesh. Further, Ashby ( 2018 ) used an in-depth case study to explore how a closed-loop supply chain (CLSC) can improve the environmental performance of a UK clothing company. The results highlight the crucial role of strategic resources and a shared vision and culture among the company and its suppliers, from a more reactive environmental damage prevention plan to a comprehensive CLSC. Jesus Munoz-Torres et al. ( 2021 ) used the LCA method to quantify textile companies’ environmental impact throughout the supply chain and compare their performance with global and sectorial sustainability challenges. The findings reveal a connection between global environmental issues and corporate environmental disclosure.

5.2.4 Taxonomy of CE and CSR drivers and barriers

Based on the previous literature, Table 2 highlights the main factors which potentially affect the propensity of fashion companies to adopt CE and CSR principles, as well as the main barriers hindering their implementation. The proposed taxonomy might serve as a starting point for more empirical research.

6 Discussions and future research directions

The descriptive analysis provided a general overview of the articles included in the literature review, highlighting that, in recent years, there is growing attention on sustainability in the TAF industries and that these topics present different scopes, belong to different disciplines, and are covered by different journals.

The content analysis of the selected articles highlighted the literature’s strengths and weaknesses, thus identifying current research and providing research ideas for future investigation. It is possible to classify the selected papers into five main research areas: 1) consumer behaviour; 2) circular economy; 3) corporate social responsibility; 4) business models; and 5) supply chain management. Table 3 offers a more in-depth discussion of existing research and future research suggestions for each of these scientific areas.

The first research area discusses the drivers influencing sustainable apparel purchasing (e.g. labelling satisfaction and environmental awareness), clothing reuse (e.g. income and altruism), as well as different clothing disposal behaviour (e.g. donation and recycling). Firstly, future research could perform a meta-analysis to generalise the empirical results of previous quantitative investigations on sustainable clothing consumer behaviour, thereby obtaining more robust conclusions than those drawn from each study. Further, as the production activities, business processes and materials contribute to an increase in the global pollution rate, eco-design features, ecological materials, processes with low environmental impact, and waste reduction have been developed in recent years (Heinze, 2020 ). This area shows the need for a more in-depth analysis of the eco-design characteristics that positively influence the ethical clothing consumer’s purchase intentions. Further, there is also a lack of studies investigating the efficiency and effectiveness of the communication tools adopted by TAF companies to encourage consumers to purchase sustainable clothing. For instance, compared to traditional channels, such as reports and advertising campaigns, corporate websites are constantly being used to present the business’ formalised and official viewpoint on CSR activities (Mann et al., 2014 ). The consumers’ opinion on this aspect could therefore be more in-depth analysed in further investigation.

The second research area focuses on drivers and barriers to adopting CE strategies in the TAF industries. In the TAF industries, due to the variety of fabrics and clothing accessories used, such as buttons and zips, end-of-life textiles are difficult to handle after disposal (Marques et al., 2020 ). Since there are presently few technologies available for separating recyclable textile waste from non-recyclable textile waste, employees still do much of the job by hand (Centobelli et al., 2022 ). Future studies could therefore design and develop new technological advances for managing and sorting textile waste. Automating the process and launching it on an industrial scale will therefore be the key to a real revolution in the world of fabrics.

Furthermore, many of the articles we analysed use the LCA methodology to evaluate companies’ environmental impact throughout the supply chain. However, there is a lack of studies examining the environmental and economic impact of different sustainable and circular clothing using the LCA and Life Cycle Costing (LCC) methodologies. Indeed, the integration of these methods will provide a holistic understanding of sustainable clothing production, allowing companies to choose materials that guarantee greater added value and which at the same time respect the environment.

The third research area is mainly focused on CSR drivers and barriers. Organisations require greater attention to social and environmental issues to develop a successful business. As a result, companies are changing their modus operandi, developing sustainable initiatives from a social and environmental point of view. According to Zhu et al., ( 2016 ), businesses are under pressure from stakeholders to reduce the negative environmental impact they generate while increasing CSR initiatives. Companies recognise the strategic importance of reacting to stakeholder concerns as a means of strengthening their competitive position (Zhu et al., 2016 ). Consequently, future studies on the analysis of stakeholder concerns in the context of TAF industries are needed to develop a holistic corporate sustainability strategy.

The fourth research area discusses different types of business models in the field of TAF industries. A vast majority discusses the PSSs and the fast fashion model. However, this area highlights the need for a more comprehensive analysis of the slow fashion business model. Slow fashion is based on various principles, such as the quality of the products, the recycled and eco-compatible materials, and the short supply chain (Jung & Jin, 2016 ). Consequently, this type of business requires greater awareness of consumers and manufacturers, as it tends to reduce the production cycle and consequently consumption. Slow fashion is aimed at safeguarding the climate, workers, natural resources, and the economy. However, due to the higher costs of slow fashion products compared to mass-produced clothes, the potential of slow fashion to make and maintain a profit represents a critical point that should be explored better. It is necessary to investigate the external pressures affecting the development of the slow fashion business model, also considering all the issues related to the transition to this new type of business model. Further, there is a lack of studies examining the circular business model innovations in the TAF industries (Henry et al., 2020 ). More in detail, according to the taxonomy proposed by Urbinati et al., ( 2017 ), three types of circular companies can be identified: downstream, upstream, and full circular companies. Downstream circular businesses follow a pricing scheme or a marketing strategy focused on product use and re-use, but these contributions neglect the necessary changes at the supplier level or internal processes or product design. On another note, upstream circular companies are described as those that implement circular solutions internally (e.g. using recycled raw materials) and focus on the interactions with their suppliers. Finally, full circular companies implement both downstream and upstream circular business model innovations. As a result, future studies could examine the degree of circularity of the TAF companies, analysing if circular business model innovations are implemented downstream, upstream, or both.

Finally, the fifth research area mainly focuses on the analysis of different social and environmental sustainability challenges along the fashion supply chain. From this research area emerged the need to explore the role of digital technologies in improving sustainability performance. Indeed, digital enabling technologies like blockchain can guarantee the complete traceability and transparency of products, thus optimising the entire supply chain and improving company performance (Centobelli et al., 2021 ). Consequently, these technologies could be an excellent resource for TAF companies, representing a strategic tool for environmental protection and sustainable development and facilitating the spread of sustainable practices.

7 Conclusions and implications

7.1 contribution to the theory.

This paper offers a comprehensive analysis of sustainability trends in the TAF industries, providing different theoretical contributions and extending the results provided by previous research. We adopted bibliometric techniques (i.e. co-occurrence analysis of keywords and abstract terms) to support the content analysis phase of the review methodology and provide quantitative insights offering a holistic understanding of the research field, integrating CSR and CE aspects. Notably, the co-occurrence network of abstract terms revealed three main research clusters: (1) consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption, (2) circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries, and (3) sustainability challenges in the fashion industry. By thoroughly analysing these clusters, we developed a conceptual framework which integrates prior study findings, identifies research gaps, and provides potential directions for future research. Consequently, this study will help researchers and academicians work in this research area to identify unexplored sub-fields, which reflect some potential investigation areas for expanding scientific literature on the topic. Moreover, the proposed taxonomy of CE and CSR drivers and barriers in the fashion industry context could be used by researchers in future investigations as a reference point for conducting empirical studies.

7.2 Contribution to practice

This study offers different opportunities to the public authorities, businesses, and practitioners involved in the path towards sustainability in the TAF context. It provides a broad range of relevant knowledge regarding how sustainability and circularity principles are affecting TAF industries. Such knowledge is essential for managers of TAF industries since it allows them to innovate their business models and prosper in today's competitive environment, thus moving to less polluting production systems and improving company performance. Manufacturing companies, purchasing organisations, and other stakeholders could gain a deeper understanding of the problems, procedures, predictors, barriers, and challenges associated with implementing sustainable practices and developing the skills necessary to reduce environmental impacts and gain competitive advantages.

Furthermore, this study may have political implications. It is acknowledged that the TAF industries represent a major source of environmental pollution. Therefore, the results of this study may inspire governments to promote sustainable initiatives in the TAF industries. For instance, policies implemented by the governments may include incentives for using eco-sustainable and recycled materials or financing for the purchase of green technologies with a lower environmental impact. In addition, for TAF industries to achieve the SDGs, the government must promote cultural changes that move innovation from an individualistic logic bound only to profit maximisation to a collectivistic, communal and open logic based on sustainable development principles.

7.3 Limitations of the study

Although considerable attention was taken to ensure the study process's validity and outcomes, certain limitations must be acknowledged. First, despite we adopted a validation criterion to integrate papers published in different academic databases, we limited our initial search to papers published in the WoS database. Furthermore, we just looked at papers and reviews published in peer-reviewed journals, ignoring other types of publications, including conference proceedings and book chapters. Second, we used VOSviewer software to conduct the co-occurrence analysis of keywords and paper terms, but other statistical analysis and clustering methods can be used, such as coauthorship analysis. Another limitation is regarding the related concept (i.e. zero waste), which is not incorporated within the scope of this research. Further studies can expand the scope to such related concepts/theories.

Data availability

The datasets generated during and/or analysed during the current study are available from the corresponding author upon reasonable request.

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Predicting sustainable fashion consumption intentions and practices

• Yingxiu Hong 1 , 2 ,
• Abdullah Al Mamun 3 ,
• Qing Yang 3 &
• Mohammad Masukujjaman 4  

Scientific Reports volume  14 , Article number:  1706 ( 2024 ) Cite this article

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• Environmental social sciences
• Human behaviour

The fashion industry has a significant impact on the environment, and sustainable fashion consumption (SFC) has become a pressing concern. This study aimed to investigate the factors influencing sustainable fashion consumption behavior (SCB) among Chinese adults, specifically the role of values, attitudes, and norms in shaping such behavior, using the value-belief-norm framework. The study used an online cross-sectional survey design to collect data from 350 participants recruited through a convenience sampling method using social media platforms and email invitations, and the obtained data were analyzed using partial least squares structural equation modelling. The results of the study showed that biospheric (BV), altruistic (AV), and egoistic (EV) values significantly influenced the New ecological paradigm (EP), which, in turn, positively affected awareness of consequences (AC). Personal norms (PN) were positively influenced by EP, AC, and ascription of responsibility (AR). Social norms (SN) and trust in recycling (TR) were also found to positively influence sustainable fashion consumption intentions (SCI). Finally, the study found that SCI and TR were significant predictors of SCB, whereas the moderating effect of TR not statistically significant. The study’s originality lies in its comprehensive investigation of the interplay between various factors (particularly using norms in two facets; PN and SN) in shaping SCB, using a structural equation modeling approach, and exploring the moderating effect of TR. The findings of this study suggest that interventions aimed at promoting SFC should focus on fostering values and beliefs that prioritize the environment, encouraging individuals to take responsibility for their actions, creating an environment in which SFC is normalized, and increasing TR.

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Introduction.

The issue of global environmental pollution is exacerbated by unsustainable consumer practices, such as the excessive or one-time acquisition of clothing items 1 . China, the world's largest textile manufacturing nation, grapples with textile and garment production waste exceeding 100 million tons 2 and an annual disposal of roughly 26 million tons of used clothing, projected to rise to around 50 million tons by 2030, with a recycling rate of less than 1% 3 . In response to these challenges, China, along with other countries, has committed to achieving "net-zero carbon emissions" by 2050 4 , which necessitates collaboration between the fashion industry and the general public. One of the key strategies in this context is the adoption of second-hand consumption 5 . Reintroducing pre-owned items extends product lifecycles, curbing the need for new items, conserving energy and resources, and significantly reducing the environmental impact tied to consumer behavior, emphasizing the crucial role of sustainable consumption 6 .

Despite certain advancements in the industry, it is noteworthy that China's volume of second-hand goods transactions amounted to just over half of that seen in the United States 1 , 7 . Similarly, the second-hand clothing-sharing market in China is still in an exploratory stage compared to the European market 1 . Given China's influence on traditional social hierarchy thinking, Chinese individuals tend to prioritize identity and status, which may lead to more rigid perspectives on second-hand items 8 . Chinese people often tend to be conservative, placing a premium on privacy, and may display some reluctance towards items from unfamiliar sources 1 . Nevertheless, with the global consensus on sustainable development, the sharing economy has gained increasing prominence among Chinese youth 9 . Simultaneously, government initiatives and state influence have promoted sustainable consumption across different segments of society 10 , potentially leading to a shift in the attitudes of consumers with rigid views on second-hand product sharing and trading. With its vast population and status as the world's largest clothing consumer, it underscores the untapped opportunities within China's second-hand clothing market and its potential for sustained expansion 11 . Therefore, platforms must evaluate present consumer considerations and identify the factors influencing consumption, enabling them to align with the right developmental trajectory.

Previous research has examined how mainstream consumers feel about and choose sustainable fashions. Environmental concerns and social norms (SN) are the main reasons why people buy sustainable fashion 12 , 13 , 14 . Conversely, recent research indicates an increased environmental consciousness among individuals, leading to a greater inclination to purchase eco-friendly products, including fast fashion items 15 , second-hand apparel 5 , reduced clothing consumption, and clothing recycling practices 16 . Other studies 17 , 18 have found that some eco-conscious consumers prefer to buy sustainable fashion by purchasing eco-friendly brands or buying used clothing, and recycling, reusing, renting, or swapping clothing. Despite a link between people’s causes and ways of throwing away clothes, practitioners and policymakers know that expectations and reality are not the same regarding the use and disposal of fashion products 19 . Hur 20 states that the majority of individuals are unaware of what happens to donated used apparel when it has reached the end of its useful life. Therefore, little attention has been paid to encouraging sustainable fashion consumption (SFC) through policy interventions or learning about how consumers reuse second-hand clothing. Thus, it is becoming increasingly important to understand what makes people want to buy sustainable fashion, and how they feel about reusing second-hand clothes.

Various theoretical frameworks have been used to determine sustainable behavior. Researchers have employed the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) and the Norm Activation Model (NAM) theories in various research contexts, as demonstrated in previous studies 21 , 22 . In recent years, an increasing number of researchers have utilized value-belief-norm (VBN) theory to predict environment-friendly behavior, and have validated its efficacy in different settings, such as recycling 23 , energy conservation 24 , and public support for green policies 25 . Other scholars have proposed extended versions of these theoretical frameworks by integrating key constructs from the TPB, VBN, and NAM into better models 22 , 26 . Yeap et al. 27 studied the second-hand cloth purchase intention in Malaysia in the perspective of the customer-to-customer (C2C) online platform based on the Integrative Model of Behavioural Prediction. Lang and Armstrong 28 focused on examining the adoption of cloth renting and swapping among female consumers, thereby allowing space for a broader understanding applicable to both male and female consumers overall. Recently, Zhang et al. 29 utilized TAM and TPB as an integrated model to evaluate cloth disposal behavior in China. However, although Zahid et al. 30 investigated second-hand cloth purchasing behavior in the Chinese context, they failed to establish any theoretical basis to guide readers. However, the use of VBN in second-hand clothing is limited. Gomes et al. 31 recently used VBN theory in a comparative study between Brazil and the Netherlands, yet stressed its value and ignored the original model to a great extent. The VBN theory provides a distinct benefit when utilizing SFC by examining green behavior from the perspective of various essential components that are strongly linked to environmentalism, including values and ecological worldviews. The VBN theory addresses individuals' pro-social incentives by integrating rational-choice models that contain self-interest motivations related to environmentally friendly behavioral intents in various contexts 32 . Thus, the application of VBN with a couple of new variables may extend the understanding of the reuse behavior of second-hand clothing.

Although the TPB, VBN, and NAM theories have been used to measure environmental behavior in several studies, most have focused on single behaviors, such as recycling, household energy use, and green consumption, rather than multidimensional measures of environmental behavior. To the best of our knowledge, few studies have combined intentions and behaviors 33 . Davies and Gutsche 34 suggested that little research has been conducted on how people actually buy things, which makes people wonder how much is known about green consumption practices. Therefore, there is a pressing need for a deeper understanding of the reasons and processes behind distinct consumer behaviors. Consumers often experience psychological deflation that leads them to shop recreationally to relieve boredom or stress, creating a psychological imbalance between their sustainability worries and buying sustainable fashion 35 . Sustainable fashion consumption behavior (SCB) is further hindered by the need to express a certain social identity 36 and the absence of convenient and sustainable clothing options. Fast fashion is more readily available to customers than environmentally conscious apparel options that require more effort and time to track. Trust is also a significant factor in the transition from intention to behavior 37 , as hindering factors can prevent consumers from acting according to their initial intentions 38 . To narrow the gap between intention and behavior regarding second-hand clothing sharing, researchers should include trust issues as a moderating factor.

While many studies have been conducted on SFC in industrialized countries such as the US, Europe, and Asia, there is a noticeable lack of research on SFC in Asian countries 13 , 14 , 39 . In their comparative study, Su et al. 14 conducted research in both the USA and China, utilizing the VBN framework and integrating constructs like apparel sustainability knowledge, consumer value, attitude, and willingness to purchase. Vehmas et al. 39 interviewed Finnish consumers about their perceptions and attitudes towards circular clothing and the communication and marketing channels of second-hand clothing without using any behavioral frameworks. Similarly, Baier et al. 13 sought answers about the drivers of pre- and post-purchase behavior in the German apparel and sports industry, using the segmented Kano method while excluding behavioral models. While studies such as Wang et al. 40 and Zhang et al. 29 addressed the issues of SFC from Chinese perspectives, the former analyzed the motivations and barriers to consumers' purchase of second-hand clothes, along with their perceived problems with this industry, without concentrating on adoption issues. In contrast, the latter study focused on another aspect of SFC, specifically cloth disposal behavior, with no indication regarding the adoption of second-hand cloth from customer perspectives. This is a significant gap, as SFC has become increasingly popular among consumers in these markets 41 especially the second-hand clothes because of their preference for fashion options with lower environmental and social impacts. However, sustainable consumerism in developing countries may be affected by a variety of cultural and economic factors, including, but not limited to, varied ethical ideals in relation to environmentally friendly fashion and lower income levels 14 . Studies have shown that sustainability knowledge and consumer preferences differ across countries, highlighting the importance of understanding cultural and economic differences 42 . Therefore, it is crucial to investigate sustainable fashion consumption exclusively on the Chinese setting to gain insight into consumers’ perspectives on the reuse of second-hand clothing.

To fill these knowledge gaps, current study created a theoretical model that analyzes the factors influencing shoppers’ decisions to buy second-hand clothing in China. The VBN variables were used in these models, and SN and trust were included. The primary goals of this research are to test whether the proposed framework, which incorporates social norms and trust, has higher predictive power than the original VBN models; find the most influential constructs for discussing intention and behavior; and assess whether VBN factors greatly impact people’s ecological behavior in the setting of second-hand clothes. This research contributes to the expanding body of literature on SFC by building upon prior studies that examine individual environmental behavior. It incorporates the VBN framework and proposes a comprehensive model to offer a more comprehensive understanding of the disparity between intention and conduct in SFC. This study effectively demonstrates the predictive effects of bi-dimensional norms, namely PN and SN, in shaping SFC, through their incorporation within the VBN frameworks. As a result, this study substantially contributes to the current understanding of the impact of social norms on promoting environmentally friendly behavior. From a managerial standpoint, this study offers valuable guidance for managers, emphasizing the need to integrate environmental values, awareness, responsibility, and trust in recycling into comprehensive strategies. Furthermore, the study underscores the managerial significance of actively shaping social norms supportive of SFC through sustainable fashion events, collaborations, and blogs, providing actionable guidance for managers seeking to influence consumer behavior and foster a broader culture of sustainability within the fashion industry. However, this paper is structured as follows: within its second section, it presents a literature review, outlines the proposed model, and presents the research hypotheses. Methods such as sampling, data gathering, measurement, and data analysis are outlined in “ Materials and methods ”. The results are presented in “ Findings ”, and the results, their possible effects, the study’s limitations, suggestions for further research, and closing remarks are discussed in “ Discussion ”.

Theoretical background and hypotheses development

According to Pencarelli et al. 43 , sustainable products offer environmental, societal, and economic advantages while safeguarding public health, welfare, and the environment throughout their entire commercial cycle, from raw material extraction to ultimate disposal, with a focus on meeting the needs of future generations. Similarly, Mohr et al. 44 define responsible consumption as a purchasing and consumption behavior pattern that aims to maximize long-term benefits while minimizing harmful impacts on both consumers and societies. In this study, the term SFC indicates the reuse of clothes, such as buying or selling used clothes at a minimal price 18 , swapping used clothes 28 , or donating used clothes to others. Thus, according to Bianchi and Gonzalez 45 , consumers who cannot afford high-priced fashion may choose to consume sustainably by purchasing second-hand apparel from thrift stores or swapping clothes with their family or friends. They may sell clothes at minimum prices to stores or donate clothes to those in need from a philanthropic viewpoint.

Theoretical foundation

VBN theory denotes that “individuals who accept a movement’s basic values, believe that valued objects are threatened, and believe that their actions can help restore those values, experience an obligation (personal norm) for pro-movement action” 46 . According to Schwartz’s 47 theory, actions relevant to norms encompass three concepts: the acceptance of an individual’s particular values, the belief that something important to those values is under threat, and the belief that a person’s behavior can help alleviate the threat and restore value, which are known as personal norms. Schwartz 48 classifies values into three types: biospheric, altruistic, and egoistic. Beliefs consist of new ecological paradigm (EP), awareness of consequences (AC), and ascription of responsibility (AR), which, in combination, affect behavioral intention.

The VBN theory predicts sustainable behaviors in various settings. It has been extensively applied to explain pro-environmental behaviors in various contexts such as residential energy savings 49 , sustainable tourism 50 , climate-conserving behaviors 51 , environmentally friendly cruise 52 , sustainable tourism and hospitality 53 , and reducing air pollution in road transportation 54 . Moreover, the VBN theory has been expanded by the incorporation of supplementary variables, including SN and perceived behavioral control 26 , emotion 55 , satisfaction, trust, and frequency of prior conduct 37 . The initial model encompassed a solitary dimension of norms, specifically personal norms. Kim et al. 56 argue that in order to achieve a thorough understanding of norms, it is necessary to expand personal norms in conjunction with social norms (SN). This entails considering both internal and exterior norms. The model proposed by Han et al. 37 received empirical support for trust. In order to address the well-recognized disparity between intentions and behaviors, the current study (Fig.  1 ) employed trust in recycling (TR) as a variable associated with intentions to engage in sustainable fashion consumption (SCI) and sustainable consumer behavior (SCB). Additionally, the study incorporated SN alongside intrinsic personal norms.

Conceptual framework.

Hypothesis development

Antecedents of new ecological paradigm (ep).

Dunlap et al. 57 developed the EP, which embraces the idea that humans are an integral part of nature, to explore individuals’ environmental attitudes. Biospheric values (BV) are key factors shaping individuals’ worldviews, particularly in relation to their interest in nature and the environment. The adoption of BV is associated with a greater concern for the environment, emphasizing the central role of environmental values in decision-making and shaping behavior. Similarly, Onel and Mukherjee 23 found that BV positively impacted a new ecological paradigm. Ünal et al. 58 explored the relationship between BV and environmental protection, demonstrating that higher levels of BV are associated with increased concern for the environment. Finally, Ye and Tkaczynski 59 argued that BV is a key driver of engagement with EP, with higher levels of BV corresponding to greater involvement in environmental issues. Therefore, we put forward the following hypothesis:

H 1 . Biosphere value is positively associated with the new ecological paradigm.

Altruistic values (AV) refer to a set of ethical principles that prioritize the well-being and interests of others. Altruistic individuals often act in ways that benefit others without expecting anything in return, and may sacrifice their own interests or desires for the greater good. AV are closely linked to the preservation of the social ecology, as noted by Vuorio et al. 60 . By contrast, egoistic value (EV) suggests that environmental issues harm individuals, causing them to prioritize their property, power, and status, and think more about their own resource needs. Previous studies on the correlation between egoistic values and EP have yielded conflicting results. While some studies suggest a negative correlation between EV and EP 61 , Kim’s study on effective hotel environmental management found that only AV were significantly associated with EP, whereas other values did not show significant 62 . In a recent study in Malaysia, Chua et al. 63 showed that all three values were significant factors of EP, with BV having a medium effect, and EV and AV having small effects. Despite limited robust evidence of the link between AV and EP, considering the cultural and social differences in the samples, it is expected that those values have direct effects on EP. Therefore, the following hypotheses are formulated:

H 2 . Altruistic value is positively associated with the new ecological paradigm.

H 3 . Egoistic value is positively associated with the new ecological paradigm.

Enablers of awareness of consequences (AC)

AC refers to an individual’s understanding of the potential outcomes or effects that may result from their actions or decisions. It involves recognizing the impact of one’s behavior on oneself, others, and the environment. In the context of environmental issues, AC relates to an individual’s understanding of how their actions may affect the natural world and the ecosystems that sustain it. Previous studies have established a causal relationship between EP and AC, indicating that individuals with greater knowledge of current environmental issues tend to be more aware of the impacts of their actions and behaviors. Campos-Soria et al. 64 and Liobikien and Poškus 65 supported this correlation, highlighting its positive effect on individuals’ awareness of the consequences of their actions. Han et al. 66 suggested that an EP can increase people’s awareness of the impact of their actions, while Landon et al. 50 proposed that personal responsibility can be improved by promoting awareness of this new environmental perspective. Thus, we propose the following hypothesis:

H 4 . New ecological paradigm is positively associated with the awareness of the consequences.

Enablers of ascription of responsibility (AR)

AR refers to assigning or attributing responsibility for an action or outcome to a particular person or group. This can include both the individual responsibility of a person for their actions, and the responsibility of larger groups or institutions for their impact on society and the environment. According to Ogiemwonyi et al. 67 &Yang et al. 68 , individuals perceive a feeling of involvement in the preservation of the environment and hold the conviction that they can actively contribute to environmental well-being through the adoption of sustainable practices. When people understand how their actions negatively affect the environment, and take steps to minimize or mitigate that impact, they demonstrate a sense of responsibility associated with personal norms (PN) and AR, as noted by Landon and Boley 50 and Ghazali et al. 69 . Scholars 58 , 70 confirmed this relationship, suggesting that awareness of the consequences of one’s actions positively influences AR. These findings are further supported by Ghazali et al. 69 , who found that awareness of consequences improves the sense of responsibility among both Malaysian and Chinese individuals. Thus, it can be concluded that a greater awareness of the environmental impact of one’s behavior and actions can lead to a stronger sense of responsibility. Thus, we postulated the following hypothesis:

H 5 . Awareness of the consequences is positively associated with AR.

Antecedents of personal norms

PN refers to internalized beliefs and expectations about how one should behave in a given situation. These norms are self-regulatory in nature and are often shaped by personal values and moral standards. They influence behavior by creating a sense of obligation or duty to act in a certain way, even when external pressures or incentives are absent. PN is thought to be particularly important in the context of pro-environmental behaviors, as it can motivate individuals to act in ways that align with their environmental values, even when it may not be socially or economically advantageous to do so. According to the VBN theory, beliefs are directly linked to individual norms. Thus, people who hold their usual beliefs about ecological well-being are more likely to develop PN for pro-environmental behavior 71 . Using the VBN framework, previous research explored the direct association between EP and PN. Chua et al. 63 observed the positive effect of EP on PN in a sample of paddy farmers. Similarly, Yeboah and Kaplowitz 72 found a positive and significant effect of EP on PN among students, teachers, and employees at Michigan State University. Hence, the hypothesis is as follows:

H 6 . New ecological paradigm is positively associated with the personal norms.

Individuals who are aware of the negative consequences of not performing altruistic acts have a stronger sense of moral obligation, and are more likely to activate PN to engage in such behaviors. AC is responsible for PN 73 . Understanding the impact of one’s actions on the environment can help individuals take steps to reduce their negative impacts and promote a sense of responsibility, ultimately leading to an increase in PN 50 , 67 . Gkargkavouzi et al. 74 suggested that AC effectively promotes personal norms to take necessary action to safeguard the climate. Similarly, Zhang et al. 22 stated that AC significantly influenced PN engagement in environment-friendly farming practices. Therefore, the following hypothesis is proposed:

H 7 . Awareness of the consequences is positively associated with PN.

When individuals experience a stronger sense of personal responsibility, they feel a moral obligation to act. AR refers to assigning responsibility to one’s behavior or actions 69 . Studies show that ascribing responsibility leads to the development of personal norms 75 . If a person recognizes that they have done something wrong, they feel a greater moral obligation to stop or reduce the harm caused 69 . Pro-environmental studies have supported this hypothesis. For instance, Ünal et al. 58 found that individuals who recognize their ability to reduce the negative consequences of their actions feel a moral obligation to support that behavior. Similarly, Bronfman et al. 70 and Rezvani et al. 76 argued that greater AR increases PN. Recent studies 77 , 78 on conservation behavior in organizations have demonstrated that AR is the strongest predictor of PN. The hypothesis is as follows:

H 8 . AR is positively associated with PN.

Enablers of sustainable fashion consumption intention

Schwartz 79 defines PN as the extent to which an individual feels morally obliged to perform a particular action. Sia and Jose 80 contend that PN is a key driver of norm-driven pro-environmental behavior and that a stronger sense of personal moral norms can lead to greater engagement in environment-friendly behavior. Han 81 and Yang et al. 77 found that PN predicts intentions for environmentally responsible behavior in various groups. Additionally, Ünal et al. 58 suggest that individuals' intentions to engage in eco-friendly actions increase when they feel a strong sense of obligation. This argument implies that PN leads to planned, environmentally conscious behaviors. Hwang et al. 82 also revealed that moral obligation has a favorable and substantial effect on the purchase intentions of organic, fair trade, and recycled clothing products. With growing concerns about environmental damage and social inequality in the fashion industry, consumers' personal values have shifted from being self-centered to society-centered 83 . Joanes 16 discovered a positive and substantial relationship between PN and the intention to minimize personal clothing consumption. Therefore, the following hypothesis is proposed:

H 9 . PN is positively linked with the intention to engage in SCI.

SN refer to shared beliefs about proper behavior within a community regarding one’s response to a situation 84 . Various studies have shown that SN have a positive impact on different behavioral domains related to sustainable behavior 84 . In the context of green consumerism, SN have been found to positively influence consumers’ behavioral intentions to buy green goods and services 26 . Additionally, an individual’s SN have been found to impact their word-of-mouth purchasing intention and intention to sacrifice 52 . Doran and Larsen 85 found that people are more likely to engage in pro-environmental behavior when they receive messages indicating that people around them are doing the same things. Moreover, Borusiak and Szymkowiak 5 explained that individuals usually feel pressured to engage in specific behaviors by the people around them. Observing others’ contributions to a common cause, such as environmental preservation, can enhance trust in cooperative intentions, strengthen beliefs about achieving desired outcomes, and increase the willingness to contribute to environmental preservation. Recently, Zahid et al. 30 revealed a positive relationship between SN and SCI in the case of second-hand clothing in China, while Zhang et al. 29 found the same relationships in the case of clothing disposal behavior in China. Yeap et al. 27 found that perceived norms (external influence) have positive influence on the intention to adopt second hand clothes in Malaysian perspectives. Therefore, the following hypothesis is proposed:

H 10 : There is a positive relationship between SN and SCI.

Trust is a belief that has been shown to have a positive relationship with green purchasing intention, as established by some authors 86 . Studies indicate that ethical cues can influence consumer opinions about low-performing products 87 , and trust in ethical businesses can influence green buying intentions, while greenwashing can damage consumer trust and reduce their green buying intentions 88 . Thus, companies that want to increase consumers’ green buying intentions should avoid actions that create green skepticism, focus on developing strong relationships with consumers, and build trust in green practices. Therefore, the following hypothesis is proposed:

H 11 : There is a positive relationship between TR and SCI.

Enfeeblers of Sustainable consumption behavior (SCB)

SCB refers to actions taken by individuals or groups to reduce their negative impacts on the environment and promote sustainable development. This involves making conscious and informed choices when purchasing goods and services, and considering the environmental and social impacts of these choices 89 . Behavioral intention is an important predictor of actual behavior, as people who intend to participate in green behavior are more likely to follow these actions 90 . Gkargkavouzi et al. 74 revealed that behavioral intention is a significant factor in voluntary actions aimed at mitigating the effects of climate change among Greek respondents. Additionally, taking responsibility for reducing energy consumption in households has been shown to promote energy conservation behaviors in households 91 . The growing need for green products and services suggests that individuals are increasingly adopting environmentally conscious behaviors 92 . Therefore, we hypothesize that as PN supporting green behavior strengthens, individuals are more likely to participate in environmentally conscious actions.

H 12 : SCI is significantly and positively linked with SCB.

Green trust refers to individuals’ “willingness to depend on a product or service based on the belief or expectations resulting from its credibility, benevolence, and environmental performance” 93 . A lack of trust can create skepticism, which may negatively affect purchase intention 94 . While most studies have focused on trust as an antecedent of purchase intention 95 , only a few have considered it as a predictor of purchase behavior. Nuttavuthisit and Thøgersen 96 found that green trust influences green consumption, and Taufique et al. 97 observed that consumers’ trust in green products leads to pro-environmental consumer behavior. Several recent studies 98 , 99 , 100 have investigated consumer behavior towards various green products and services. Thus, the following hypothesis is postulated:

H 13 : TR is positively linked with the SCB.

Moderation of TR

Trust, which refers to consumer beliefs and expectations regarding the reliability, capability, and goodwill of both green products and their producers, leads to the intention to trust the companies and products involved 101 . Individuals pursue sustainable lifestyles not only because of their ecological awareness and comprehension, but also the personal benefits or contentment derived from the products or services they consume 101 . In this study, TR is indicated for second-hand clothes based on its credibility in meeting expectations, usability of clothes, and hygiene issues. Many people want to wear clothes for long periods. Therefore, consumers may feel a lack of trust in the durability of fashion products, as they have already been used for a while. According to Harris and Hagger 102 , the intention to act does not necessarily mean being able to do so. Studies show that consumers’ lack of trust can be a major barrier to purchasing organic products 96 . According to Sultan et al. 103 and Zheng et al. 104 , trust plays a moderating role in addressing intention-behavior gaps. Therefore, we propose the following hypothesis:

H M1 : TR positively moderates the link between SCI and SCB.

All associations hypothesized above are presented in Fig.  1 below:

Materials and methods

Research design.

The research followed a cross-sectional design in which an online survey was conducted. This approach differs from that of a longitudinal study that collects data repeatedly within a specific timeframe. This study is quantitative and utilizes a pre-existing research framework. The following sections delve more deeply into the techniques employed in this study.

Population and sample

The target population was Chinese adults who were more than 18 years old and could participate in the survey without their guardians’ permission. We obtained signed informed consent forms through a questionnaire. Using the G-power 3.1 tool with 10 different predictors, a power of 0.80 and an effect size of 0.15 were utilized to arrive at an estimate for the sample size. The minimum number of samples required to perform an analysis with sufficient power was 118 105 . However, Hair et al. 106 recommend that partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM) should use at least 200 samples. To avoid restrictions of a small sample size, this study intended to obtain data from more than 300 Chinese adults.

Data collection procedure

Present research created an electronic questionnaire to collect empirical data by applying measurement scale items from previous studies. In addition, this study used a back-translation technique to ensure that the survey was accurate. First, the research questionnaires were carefully examined using English. Second, investigators obtained help from professional experts who were used to the research and spoke both English and Chinese to translate it into Chinese. Third, two professional translators who spoke English and Chinese blindly translated the Chinese questionnaire back into English. Fourth, the quality of the translations was assessed by comparing the two versions. In the case of dispersion, researchers and translators worked to find solutions. Finally, the questionnaire was pretested to determine its accuracy. The issuance and completion of the questionnaires were closely supervised to ascertain the validity and well-organized gathering of the data. Researchers sent 32 questionnaires and collected them from a pretest sample. The pre-test findings confirmed the preliminary validity and reliability of the items used.

The survey collecting data took place in China, since the participants of the research were from different parts of China; the empirical data was obtained using the online survey method. The human research ethics committee of Nanfang College Guangzhou approved this study (Nanfang-2023–1209). This study has been performed in accordance with the Declaration of Helsinki. Written informed consent for participation was obtained from respondents who participated in the survey. Respondents were selected using convenience sampling method. All respondents were informed that the study focused on their sustainable fashion consumption (buying, swapping, or donating second hand clothes). Data was collected between 20 th November 2022 to 27 th January 2023, and downloaded from the website 28th th January 2023. The questionnaire was circulated using social media platforms, primarily through the WJX.cn website, and 979 valid responses were received.

Measurement instruments

The questionnaire consisted of two main sections: A and B. Section A comprised the demographic information of respondents (eight questions), whereas all related 54 questions were incorporated in section B. The study used pre-literature for its scale after fitting it into the context, with modification (rewording) and alternation, where necessary. Four items of BV and AV and five items of EV were extracted from Han et al. 107 . Five items each for the contracts SN, TR, and SCB were adopted from Kim et al. 108 , Chen 93 , and Attiq et al. 109 , respectively. The EP construct (five items) was adapted from López-Mosquera and Sánchez 110 , while the five items of AC originated from López-Mosquera and Sánchez 110 and Choi et al. 111 . The study followed López-Mosquera and Sánchez 110 and Ünal et al. 58 for taking the items (5) of AR. The items (5) of PN were sourced from Choi et al. 111 and Ünal et al. 58 . The TR (five items) was obtained from Chen 93 , and the SCI constructs (five items) were extracted from 5 . The questionnaire had closed-ended items that evaluated 11 constructs from previous studies using a seven-point Likert scale ranging from 1: strongly disagree to 7: strongly agree. A complete questionnaire has been submitted to this manuscript as supporting material— S1. Survey Instrument.

Common method bias

To determine the impact of common method bias (CMB) and propose remedies, the study questions were meticulously crafted, and respondents were assured that there were no right or wrong answers, and their responses would remain anonymous 112 . Harman’s single-factor test was used as a diagnostic tool to determine the influence of common method bias. The single factor was 32.507%, which was less than the prescribed limit of 50% in Harman’s one-factor test. This proves that the CMB had no significant effect on this study. Moreover, an examination of CMB involved an assessment of the full collinearity of all constructs, as recommended by Kock 113 . All the study structures were regressed on the common variance and variance inflation factors (VIF) values shown in Table 1 . There was no presence of bias in the data from a single source because all VIF values were lower than 3.3.

Multivariate normality

Using appropriate data analysis techniques to check multivariate normality is crucial. This study estimated multivariate normality using an online Web Power tool 114 . The results of the multivariate normality test revealed that the p values for Mardia’s multivariate skewness (z = 2209.93) and kurtosis (z = 37.85) were below 0.05, indicating non-normality. Thus, to accommodate non-normal data, this study uses PLS-SEM. Structural equation modelling approach provides better estimates than regression for mediation and moderation 115 . PLS-SEM is a satisfactory approach for evaluating complex frameworks involving moderating relationships 106 . Therefore, PLS-SEM was employed with the Smart-PLS 4.0.

Data analysis method

The analysis of this research followed two stages. First, the measurement model was quantified to determine validity and reliability. In the later phase, structural equation modeling was used to elaborate the connection between the predictor and latent variables, including the mediation and moderation effects. It is widely accepted that structural equation modeling provides better estimates than regression when executing mediation and moderation 115 . Therefore, this research applied structural equation modeling, specifically PLS-SEM, using Smart-PLS 4.0, which is regarded as the best choice because of its effectiveness in evaluating complex frameworks involving moderation effects 106 .

Ethics approval

The human research ethics committee of Nanfang College Guangzhou approved this study (Nanfang-2022-1009). This study has been performed in accordance with the Declaration of Helsinki.

Informed consent

Written informed consent for participation was obtained from respondents who participated in the survey.

Respondents profile

The provided demographic Table 2 presents information on the gender, age group, education level, marital status, employment status, and clothing purchasing habits of 979 individuals. The sample was evenly divided into male (49.7%) and female (50.3%) participants. Most participants had a bachelor’s degree or below (93.0%), with only 11.1% having a postgraduate degree. In terms of age, the sample was evenly distributed across different age groups, with the largest groups being those aged 26–35 years (28.1%) and 36–45 years (29.3%). Most participants were married (61.5%) and employed full-time (41.3%), with 13.2% unemployed and 3.7% retired. Regarding clothing purchasing habits, most participants purchased new clothes one to two times per month (34.8%), and spent less than RMB1500 per month on clothing (39.7%).

The study’s reliability and validity were examined by assessing the internal consistency of the measurement items as well as the composite reliability and average variance extracted (Table 3 ). The results indicate high levels of internal consistency, with Cronbach’s alpha ranging from 0.892 to 0.933 for each variable. The composite reliability values ranged from 0.896 to 0.947, indicating a high degree of construct reliability. The average variance extracted values ranged from 0.711 to 0.788, indicating that the measures accounted for a substantial proportion of the variance in each construct. The variance inflation factor values were all below the recommended threshold of 2.5, indicating no multicollinearity issues. Therefore, the measures demonstrated good reliability and validity, suggesting that the results are credible and robust.

After confirming reliability and discriminant validity, we applied both Fornell and Lacker’s criterion and Heterotrait-Monotrait (HTMT) ratio (Table 4 ; Fig.  2 ). The Fornell–Larcker criterion shows the correlation between constructs and the amount of variance shared among them. Diagonal values represent the square root of the average variance extracted (AVE) for each construct. Values above the diagonal represent the correlation between constructs, whereas those below the diagonal represent the AVE for each construct. All diagonal values exceed 0.5, indicating acceptable convergent validity. The off-diagonal values were generally lower, suggesting good discriminant validity. The standard value of the HTMT is less than 0.90, and values exceeding this limit indicate low discriminant validity 116 . All values in the HTMT matrix are below the threshold value (i.e., 0.90) confirming a high level of discriminant validity. However, all cross-loadings remained greater than 0.5, as shown (Appendix 1 ). Overall, the analysis suggests that the measures have adequate reliability and validity for the constructs studied.

Heterotrait–monotrait ratio (HTMT) matrix.

The results (as presented in Table 5 ; Fig.  3 ) reveal that BV (β = 0.193, t = 5.091, p < 0.01), AV (β = 0.163, t = 4.378, p < 0.01) and EV (β = 0.204, t = 5.608, p < 0.01) influenced significantly on EP. The link between EP and AC was identified as positive (β = 0.265, t = 7.998, p < 0.01), signifying the positive effect of EP on AC. Moreover, AC had a positive significant influence on AR (β = 0.342, t = 10.591, p < 0.01). EP (β = 0.130, t = 3.712, p < 0.01), AC (β = 0.294, t = 7.963, p < 0.01) and AR (β = 0.231, t = 6.530, p < 0.01) affected positively on PN. Additionally, PN (β = 0.228, t = 6.645, p < 0.01), SN (β = 0.207, t = 6.170, p < 0.01) and TR (β = 0.364, t = 10.777, p < 0.01) demonstrated a positive relation on SCI. SCI (β = 0.374, t = 11.140, p < 0.01) and TR (β = 0.333, t = 9.759, p < 0.01) had significant positive effects on SCB. Similarly, the study finds a statistically insignificant moderation role of TR (β = , t = − 0.056, t = 2.071, p < 0.05) within the connection between SCI and SCB (Fig.  4 ). Although the p value (0.019) falls within the 5% level of significance, the hypothesis is rejected as it presents the opposite relationship. Therefore, this study found that hypotheses (H1–13) were validated at the 1% level of significance, and hypothesis (H M1 ) was rejected (Table 5 ).

Measurement model.

Moderation of trust in recycling.

Moreover, the outcome (Table 6 ) of the study found that BV, AV, and EV had indirect relationships with AC and PN, and EP has the same with AR, PN, and SCI. Likewise, AC is indirectly linked with PN and SCI, while AR is with SCI. The constructs PN, SN, and TR are indirectly related on the SCB.

This study investigated the relationship between values, attitudes, and sustainable fashion consumption behavior. It proposed 14 hypotheses based on the extended VBN theory, 13 of which were confirmed by empirical investigation. The exogenous constructs in the model were found to have a significant impact on the endogenous construct, with an explanatory power of 42.3% for SCB, indicating a good fit between the model and the investigation. The following discussion provides details of the relationships identified in this study.

The finding that Biospheric, Altruistic, and Egoistic values had a significant influence on the New Ecological Paradigm (NEP) is consistent with previous research 63 that highlights the importance of values in shaping environmental attitudes and behavior (H1–3). The finding that these values significantly influence the New Ecological Paradigm suggests that individuals who hold these values are more likely to adopt an environmentalist perspective and engage in sustainable behaviors. The results also suggest that individuals who hold values that prioritize the environment, personal and collective well-being, and personal growth, are more likely to adopt a new ecological paradigm that views humans as part of the ecosystem and emphasizes the importance of protecting the natural environment.

The present study revealed that the New Ecological Paradigm significantly influences individuals’ Awareness of Consequences (H4), indicating that people who hold environmental concerns and beliefs tend to be more aware of the environmental consequences of their actions. These findings are consistent with previous research showing that the New Ecological Paradigm is an essential predictor of individuals’ AC 50 . Han et al. 66 suggest that individuals who hold a new ecological paradigm perspective are more likely to be aware of the environmental consequences of their actions. This new ecological paradigm represents an underlying belief system that recognizes the interdependence between humans and the natural environment. Therefore, it can be assumed that individuals with a new ecological paradigm perspective are more likely to be conscious of the consequences of their actions on the environment. Consequently, they may be more motivated to engage in SCB to reduce their environmental impact.

Furthermore, the finding that awareness of consequences had a positive and significant influence on AR (H5) supports previous research 58 , 69 that has suggested that individuals who are more aware of the consequences of their actions are more likely to feel responsible for their impact on the environment. This finding aligns with Value-Belief-Norm theory, which proposes that individuals who are aware of ecological consequences accept responsibility for their actions. In this study, the relationship between awareness of consequences and AR may be explained by the fact that individuals who are more aware of the consequences of their actions are more likely to feel a sense of responsibility for their impact on the environment. This finding has implications for interventions aimed at promoting sustainable fashion consumption, as it suggests that increasing awareness of the consequences of unsustainable fashion practices may help individuals develop a stronger sense of responsibility for their actions, and motivate them to engage in more sustainable fashion consumption behaviors.

Moreover, this study identified a positive and significant relationship between EP, AC, AR, and PN (H6–8), consistent with previous studies 22 , 63 , 77 , 78 . This implies that individuals who strongly believe in the need for ecological conservation and are aware of the consequences of their actions towards the environment are more likely to develop a sense of responsibility for their actions. They are more likely to form a PN that prioritizes sustainable fashion consumption, which could result in behavioral changes towards more sustainable fashion choices. Individuals who internalize sustainable values and beliefs are more likely to form PN that prioritize sustainable fashion consumption, leading to changes in their behavior. This finding suggests that interventions aimed at promoting sustainable fashion consumption should focus on developing PN that prioritize the environment and sustainability.

Additionally, the results of this study suggest that PN, SN, and TR have positive effects on SCI (H9–11). This is important because it indicates that personal influence, social influence, and TR motivate individuals to adopt SCB. SN refers to shared beliefs and behaviors within a society or a particular group. The positive effect of social norms on SCI implies that individuals are more likely to engage in SCB when they perceive such behaviors as socially accepted and valued. This finding is consistent with previous research 84 . Yeap et al. 27 , Zahid et al. 30 , Zhang et al. 22 demonstrating the important role of SN in shaping pro-environmental behaviors. TR, on the other hand, refers to an individual’s confidence in the effectiveness and efficiency of recycling programs. The positive effect of TR on SCI suggests that individuals who trust recycling programmes are more likely to engage in SCB. This finding is particularly relevant 81 in the context of sustainable fashion consumption, as it suggests that individuals in TR programs may be more likely to engage in behaviors such as recycling clothes or purchasing clothes made from recycled materials. Also, this is true for renting clothes in case of circular fashion conducted by Shrivastava et al. 117 .

Finally, this study found that SCI and TR were significant predictors of SCB (H12–13). This result suggests that individuals who have a higher intention to consume sustainability and TR are more likely to engage in SCB, such as buying, swapping, or donating second-hand clothes. The positive effect of SCI on SCB suggests that individuals with a strong intention to engage in sustainable fashion consumption are more likely to engage in such behaviors. This finding is consistent with previous research 86 demonstrating the important role of intention in predicting pro-environmental behaviors. However, the study found that TR did not moderate the relationship between SCI and SCB, contrary to the hypothesized relationship (H M1 ) and the findings of Sultan et al. 103 .

Implications of the study

Theoretical implications.

This study makes several theoretical contributions to the field of sustainable fashion consumption. First, it identifies several factors that influence sustainable fashion consumption behavior, including BV, AV, and EV, as well as AC, AR, PN, SN, and TR. This provides a comprehensive understanding of the factors that motivate individuals to engage in SCB, which can inform the development of interventions aimed at promoting such behaviors. Second, it used bi-dimensional norms, such as PN and SN, in the VBN frameworks, and established that both are predictors of SCB. Thus, this study contributes to the literature on the role of SN in promoting pro-environmental behavior. The finding that SN has a positive effect on SCI suggests that interventions aimed at increasing SN to support sustainable fashion consumption may be effective in promoting SCB.

Third, this study identified the importance of SCI and TR as predictors of SCB. This highlights the importance of considering not only individuals’ values and beliefs, but also their perceptions of the effectiveness and efficiency of recycling programs in promoting SCB. Finally, this study contributes to the literature on the intention-behavior gap in SCB. Many respondents are highly willing to purchase, but ultimately do not purchase pro-environmental products, which is referred to as the intention-behavior gap. Although these findings suggest that SCI and TR are significant predictors of SCB, there is no evidence that TR is a moderator. This result will encourage academia to conduct further research on the intention-behavior gap in SCB in another cultural context.

Practical implications

The results of this study have important practical implications for the promotion of SCB. First, the results suggest that interventions aimed at promoting SFC should focus on fostering values that prioritize the environment, personal and collective well-being, and personal growth. For example, campaigns highlighting the environmental and social benefits of SFC may appeal to individuals who hold these values. Furthermore, the findings imply that interventions aimed at promoting SFC should focus not only on increasing awareness of the consequences of unsustainable fashion consumption but also on promoting a sense of responsibility for one’s actions. Such interventions could include educating individuals on the environmental impact of their fashion choices and encouraging them to take responsibility for their actions towards the environment to adopt a new ecological paradigm. This can be achieved through educational campaigns and by creating a sustainable fashion culture that highlights the importance of SCB. These interventions can be implemented through various channels, such as social media campaigns, educational programs, and fashion industry initiatives that promote SFC.

Second, this study emphasizes the importance of creating social norms that support SFC., which can be achieved through initiatives such as sustainable fashion events, sustainable fashion collaborations, and sustainable fashion blogs. By creating a sustainable fashion community that promotes SCB, individuals are more likely to adopt this behavior. Third, this study highlights the importance of increasing TR, which is a significant predictor of SCB and has important implications for policymakers and marketers seeking to promote SFC. This can be achieved through initiatives that increase awareness about the importance of recycling and highlight the benefits of recycling, such as reduced waste and increased resource efficiency. Additionally, initiatives that increase access to recycling facilities and make recycling more convenient can increase TR and promote SCB.

Finally, this study provides important insights into the intention-behavior gap in SCB. These findings suggest that SCI and TR are significant predictors of SCB. Therefore, interventions aimed at promoting SFC should focus on increasing individuals’ SCI and TR to close the intention-behavior gap and encourage SCB.

This study highlights the significant roles played by values, attitudes, and norms in shaping SCB among individuals. These findings suggest that individual values, including BV, AV, and EV, significantly influence EP, which positively affects AC. This awareness leads to a greater sense of responsibility toward the environment, which, in turn, positively influences SCB. This study also suggests that PN plays a vital role in shaping SCB, and creating an environment where SFC is considered normal, to encourage more individuals to adopt SCB. Moreover, this study emphasizes the importance of increasing TR to promote SCB. The findings have significant implications for policymakers and businesses aiming to promote SFC and create a more sustainable fashion industry.

This study has limitations worth noting. Firstly, it exclusively examined individual-level factors influencing SCB and did not consider broader societal influences like policies and regulations that might impact SCB. Future research should explore the interplay between individual and societal factors to achieve a more comprehensive understanding of SCB. Another limitation is the study's neglect of other factors like price, availability, and convenience that can affect SCB. While values, beliefs, and norms are important predictors of behavior, practical factors also play a role in individuals' engagement in SFC. Subsequent research could assess the relative influence of these practical factors in addition to values, attitudes, and norms. Additionally, the study concentrated on SCB without examining the influence of sustainable fashion production practices. Sustainable production practices, including the use of sustainable materials, waste reduction, and fair labor practices, are crucial for overall sustainable fashion. Future research should explore the factors affecting these production practices and their relationship with consumption.

Furthermore, the study relied on self-reported SCB measures, potentially subject to social desirability bias, wherein participants might have overreported SCB to appear more socially responsible. Future research could employ objective measures, like tracking actual purchasing and disposal behaviors. The study used a cross-sectional design, limiting its ability to establish causality between the variables studied. Future research could utilize longitudinal or experimental designs to investigate causal relationships between variables. Finally, the present study adopted the convenience sampling method, which might trigger common method biases, even though precautions were taken during the study. Advanced research could consider employing other sampling techniques, such as probability sampling, to mitigate any potential biases and ensure more accurate results.

Data availability

The original contributions presented in the study are included in the article/Research Data, further inquiries can be directed to the corresponding author/s.

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This study is supported via funding from Nanfang College Guangzhou (2022 School-level Research Project. No. 2022XK06), Fund received by: Yingxiu Hong. The funders had no role in study design, data collection and analysis, decision to publish, or preparation of the manuscript.

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International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research

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• Published: 28 May 2018

An exploratory study on up-cycling as the sustainable clothing life at home

• Sooyoen Shim 1 ,
• Jisoo Kim   ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0003-1951-5429 1 &
• Youngjoo Na 1  

Fashion and Textiles volume  5 , Article number:  14 ( 2018 ) Cite this article

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The textile and fashion industries are difficult to achieve sustainability because they are made up of long supply chains. Also, it cannot rely only on the industries for sustainable. Thus, it is important that consumers have to practice at home. Therefore, it is necessary to give the ideas that can be done at home, promote the importance of practice, and present a variety of practical ways. We executed focus-group interview to understand sustainable clothing and the attitude and status of up-cycling in families. Situation analysis for the attitude and up-cycling of sustainable clothing is available with various participants in each group upon fluency of up-cycling method, information share ability, and the degree of understanding in clothing-fiber production process. It showed that they make selective purchase of sustainable fashion products in families, washing and control for minimizing of environmental impact and energy consumption, and recycling and used articles trade, a way of life for sustainable clothing.

Introduction

Sustainability has become recognized as an important issue for clothing retailers during the last decade, with increasing demand from consumers for products which are environmentally and socially sustainable (Joergens 2006 ). Sustainable consumption will require consumers to buy less, use products longer and produce less waste (Tilikidou and Delistavrou 2004 ). Interest in sustainable clothing production and consumption is growing and the rapid increase in the size of the sustainable clothing market implies that consumers are concerned about sustainability (Shaw et al. 2006 ). The clothing sector has responded to this type of publicity and to consumer demand, with the introduction of small-scale ethical clothing retailers and the launch of sustainable ranges by larger retailers, mainly based on organic cotton products or Fair Trade production (Goworek et al. 2012 ). Now the preoccupancy of fast fashion in clothing industry represents the trend of current society which is sensitive to fashion, rather than quality and physical life of product. Producers built up mass production system by outsourcing so as to be competitive by lowering the price, and consumers, with the decreased burden, become intemperate in spending. Repetition of intemperate production and consumption has led to various problems and resource waste, and clothing wastes became a social issue.

The issue of clothing wastes requires urgent reconsideration as 3% of wastes discharged from each household is clothing (Fletcher 2008 ). As clothing wastes weigh significant impact not only on environment but also on economic loss, fundamental solution is required and sustainable clothing life draws attention. In order to maximize sustainability in the clothing industry, the producers as well as the role of consumers and especially the role of households are now important. Previously, households were regarded as a passive position to purchase and consume manufactured goods, but now consumers must actively implement sustainability as a productive consumer for sustainable living as a final determinant of their lifestyle.

Various studies are vigorously being carried out on the topic of sustainability. However, most of these studies are about sustainability focused on the producers (Chi 2015 ; Brito et al. 2008 ; Na and Na 2015 ), and the ones about family-focused sustainable clothing life are insufficient. Whereas the role of families are important since they are the final consumer and the subject of product use and waste in clothing life, there are insufficient amount of studies focusing on this topic. And most of the studies focusing on consumers are the ones about consumer attitude and consumption behavior (Maineri et al. 1997 ; Follows and Jobber 2002 ; Joergens 2006 ), with a narrow focus only on the eco-friendly and ethical characteristics, providing it difficult to understand the broad sense of sustainability encompassing the environment · economy · society · cultural elements.

Up-cycling is effective in expressing our own personality without unnecessary spending, and satisfying the desire for pursuing creative and novel material. This study examined the attitude and practice for sustainable clothing life in families, and focused on up-cycling among the practice of sustainable clothing life in families for proliferation of sustainable clothing life.

Literature review

Sustainability and clothing.

‘Our Common Future’ of Bruntland Committee defined sustainability as ‘Satisfying the need of current generation while not impeding what future generation requires (Merchant 1989 ).’ Like this, sustainability prepares guidelines in a long term view, considering the impact of present behavior weighing on future generation.

Although many studies narrowly view sustainability by limiting it only on environmentalism, sustainability encompasses the entire area of society and culture. We have to take into consideration the sustainability in economic, social and cultural areas of the world, while trying to recognize and minimize the impact of uncontrolled human behavior on environment. Recognizing that one-sided economic growth upon limited resource cannot be continued, sustainability preserves environment and is based on stable and long term profit-making and qualitative growth. Also it pursues harmonized development of community and does not overlook social responsibility. And it expands environmental protection or qualitative growth of economy, places importance on mental value and ethics, and fosters cultural diversity (Na 2011 ).

Sustainable clothing is thought of mainly in eco-friendly context, but the evaluation territory of sustainability is enormous, encompassing areas such as fair production structure, economic vitality and qualitative growth, and consumers rational spending pattern and pursue of variety. When destroying sustainable fashion, we can safely return to the globe, and it should be made so that it can be used again. And we should produce according to sustainable processes, without causing environmental damage, and products should be done, not focusing on producer, but focusing on users. In particular, we need to pay attention to inter-supplementary relation between consumers and producers, and subjective attitude, which can realize and finish the value of clothing in families after production (Fletcher 2008 ). Where slow fashion is a sustainable approach to fashion production and consumption, it focuses greater attention on ‘valuing and knowing the object’ (Clark 2008 ). This means understanding the process of raw material to finished product as part of the experience of consumption. This form of sustainable consumption is centred in a consumer value system that engages with experience values over self-enhancement values (Manchiraju and Sadachar 2014 ).

Up-cycling and clothing

The term up-cycling was first used by Reiner Pilz in 1994, when he gave the meaning ‘to grant more value to old product’. Up-cycling is compared with down-cycling, which is recycled in manner of losing significant part of existing characteristics or merits mainly while passing through mechanical and chemical processing. On the other hand, up-cycling is defined as the type of ‘recycling in rise in value’ (Choi et al. 2014 ).

The 1st target of up-cycling is to reduce wastes, and it repeats and circulates the life cycle of products by changing its use in the final stage of product life cycle, without going through the entire process of planning, production, and consumption of product. This corresponds to the sustainability where re-designing refines environmental impact and recovers natural ecosystem. It also is, in principle of sustainable design, to re-think the design for realization of re-cycle of material circulation and symbiosis of human and nature, and up-cycling minimizes the process by maximum use of original functions, based on re-cycle of wastes. This leads to the refining of environmental impact, and we can see that up-cycling is based on sustainability rooted in re-design and re-think of symbiosis.

The fast fashion phenomenon has revolutionized the clothing industry over the past decade. Changing consumer attitudes to apparel consumption, linked with low-cost production and sourcing of materials from overseas industrial markets has led to a culture of impulse buying in the fashion industry, where new styles of clothing are available to the average consumer every week. Consumers are practicing up-cycling, which is important in the era of fast fashion at home (Turker and Altuntas 2014 ).

This study executed Focus Group Interview in order to understand the attitude and status of up-cycling in families in respect to sustainability upcycling potency at home. A qualitative research method was used in order to gather and analyze trend from the interview data. Focus Group Interview as a research method is not to make generalized deductions as in a mass survey, but to comprehend various persons’ recognition of specific circumstances and experiences by targeting a various range of participants. A total of 30 participants participated in an event on sustainable clothing were grouped into 8 groups for the Focus Group Interview. Situation analysis for the attitude and up-cycling of sustainable clothing was performed in each group for the following criteria: fluency of up-cycling method, ability to share information, the degree of understanding in the clothing-fiber production process (i.e. positive practices of sustainable clothing), and proficiency with the sewing machine in the upcycling process (Table  1 ).

In this study, interviews of 30–50 min were performed for each group, spanning a period of 2 months (February to March of 2015). Verbal agreements from participants were obtained following the explanation of the purpose and method of the study and the general content of interview. Interviews were recorded under the agreement of the participants. The main content corresponding to the subject, unexpected answers, atmosphere of the interview, and individual lifestyles and background of the participants during the interview were noted and recorded. Questions were open-ended and given in an order that induced natural transition from one topic to another as it would in a casual group discussion. The recorded details of the Focus Group Interview were documented and analyzed, focusing on the content corresponding to the study purpose. The analysis and details of each group were taken into account when asking follow-up questions.

The format of the interview (Krueger and Casey 2000 ) included these types of questions in the following order: opening question, introductory questions, transition questions, key questions, and ending questions.

Opening questions: The purpose of the opening question was to encourage all the participants to be acquainted with the group discussion, and instead of focusing on the personal experiences, general questions regarding the factual side of the topic were asked.

Introductory questions: These questions introduced each of the study topics to the participants, as well as being open-ended enough for the individuals to respond freely while engaging them to brainstorm about the topic of sustainable clothing in their personal homes.

Transition questions: These questions were designed to slowly shift the focus into key questions for the study. Participants were encouraged to make connections with their personal experiences and the study topic.

Key questions: Questions directly pertaining to the individual knowledge and experience of the participants in their home practices of upcycling were asked. More time for response was given to each individual in order to for the participant to give a full, detailed account of their background status, methods practiced, upcycling knowledge and tips, along with other relevant personal accounts.

Ending questions: As a conclusive question, the participants were asked to reflect upon whether their knowledge on upcycling and their practices at home were in sync. The interviewer summarized the discussion at the end, and asked the participants if anything else need to be added to the discussion summary, giving more time for the participants to review the group discussion (Table  2 ).

Results and discussion

Sustainable clothing in families, attitude for sustainable clothing.

Participants who believed that family-focused sustainable clothing practices should be done mentioned the role and importance of upcycling in families. They think that families have discretion for the practice of sustainable clothing, and told that they tried to practice this on purpose.

‘At the end, it is my family who determines whether to use the product, although it is the producers that make it. (Participant 3)’

‘When families recognize such effect (on sustainability), companies will practice sustainable measures eventually. There is no effect when only producers practice it. (Participant 6)’

‘I think behaviors among families are more important, because if we do not execute sustainable behaviors ourselves, the intention of producers will never be realized, even if sellers do produce sustainable products. (Participant 23)’

On the other hand, participants who focus on the role of producers in sustainable clothing said that the role of producers is more critical, as many environmental and social problems arise in the course of production.

They thought in receptive position, without subjectively thinking about the role of families in clothing sustainability. They also answered that families practice sustainable clothing according to the intention of producers. This behavior was considered to be a more passive behavior than the former, since families are not productive consumers, but passive followers in this case.

‘Producer has great responsibility. We are in a receptive position as we choose products, and we can only do it when they produce them. I think we have no options to select when the producers just make products to be discarded after one-time use. (Participant 2)’

Practice of sustainable clothing in families

Selection of sustainable fashion products Participants, as the result of interview, were interested in sustainable fashion products, and told the interviewer that they were cooperative in buying sustainable products. Many products purchased by the study participants were eco-friendly products: products practicing social responsibility, up-cycled products, and durable products for long-time wear.

Also participants were much interested in social enterprises in textile industry, and they positively thought of the impact that social enterprises weigh on society, considering that social enterprises are based on sustainability.

‘I enjoy shoes brand ‘T’. They say that if I buy one pair of those shoes, I would be donating another pair to the refugees in the world. Along with satisfaction that I did a good thing over the fact that I bought what I need, I am interested in what things are there beyond the fact that I simply bought things. (Participant 12)’

And it appeared that the participants chose the product that could be used for a long time for the practice of sustainable clothing in families while aiming for fast fashion. Although they purchased SPA brand product because of competitive low price of fast fashion, it showed that the sustainability factors besides price apply to buying decision as consuming consciousness gets increased, and they chose and bought the clothes to wear for a long time, without being swayed by temporal fashion.

‘I bought brand “oo” because of its low price. But, now I rarely buy SPA brand. Because they are really for one season, being much too sloppy with one time washing…. Sometimes I think about why I buy clothes that I will discard soon. (Participant 26)’

Sustainable washing and control The participants also thought much of the impact on environment during washing and control process. They consider the amount of detergent and washing temperature, and told that they purchase the clothes where contamination could easily be removed by partial washing or cleanness could be maintained without frequent washing. Checking the material when buying and recognizing that the frequency of washing gets different depending on materials were important considerations. And they answered that they prefer the clothes which do not require ironing; this can be a clothing behavior, considering sustainability beyond the simple convenience of control.

Recycling and used articles trade As a result of interviews, most of the study participants do not destroy clothing products whose psychological lifespan expired, but seek ways to use them again. Participants told that they do not scrap clothes, but practice sustainable clothing in families by extending the lifespan of those clothes, for subjective sustainable clothing in families. They recycle the clothes in various ways, from mending the size through re-form to mending the men‘s clothes to fit to the body of women, or correcting the silhouette past with fashion, or changing the usage completely. It has shown that this recycling not only weighs positive impact on environment, by reducing the clothes wastes, but also gives economic saving effect and usage of the article for a long time with affection after recycling. Also they get emotional satisfaction with a way of life in recycling hobbies.

It has shown that they donate them to acquaintances, beside Beautiful Store, Citizen Marketplace and used articles trade. Most of the study participants think much positively about ‘donation’ of unused articles to acquaintances as gifts or ‘Passing on’, and think that it is the most non-obligative and effective way.

‘I use Beautiful Store whenever I arrange my closet. At first I thought donating to Beautiful Store would be cumbersome, but with continuation of such donation, now I don‘t think it’s so difficult. (Participant 5)’

‘I open marketplace for used articles like this each week. Now neighbors bring their unnecessary articles by themselves (knowing that I sell at used articles marketplace). It is also exciting to watch and meet new people at the marketplace. (Participant 9)’

‘There are many clothes we don‘t wear because we are tired of it, or they don’t fit anymore. My mother gathers such clothes and gives them to my cousins. We don‘t have time to re-form these clothes for ourselves again. Giving them to those who need them is the best. (Participant 28)’

Up-cycling in families based on sustainability

Attitude towards up-cycling in families.

The study participants voiced recycling as one of the methods for sustainable clothing in families, and thought of up-cycling as a kind of recycling. They explained up-cycling as ‘recycling, re-use, re-modeling,’ and said that up-cycling newly commercializes used articles or changes their usages, and has aspect of raising the value and quality of commodity in used articles. They thought up-cycling in families weigh positive impact on environment, and there was a participant who said that he got interested in up-cycling by the up-cycling brand products of ‘S’, ‘F’, ‘U’ and brand story. The common thought of the up-cycling participants is that up-cycling is the recent trend topic.

Degree of understanding participants’ Degree of understanding of up-cycling was classified into three types: (i) the type that distinguishes up-cycling and down-cycling, (ii) the type who heard about up-cycling or encountered the books, lecture, and articles with subject of up-cycling, and infer about up-cycling as similar in meaning with recycling, but there were also some who could not distinguish up-cycling from down-cycling or recycling. Finally, there was participant type (iii) who never heard of up-cycling or encountered relevant media about it.

The younger in age of the participant, the higher the degree of understanding about up-cycling, and they answered that they had opportunity to encounter up-cycling. When explaining the meaning of up-cycling, they compared it with down-cycling, and said it is recycling of raised value.

‘I think up-cycling is to make an A product into an A+ product. I think that, with recycling, they make more value in the products. (Participant 17)’

‘Simple recycling could deteriorate the quality, and isn’t up-cycling adding a new value to the quality which existing product has? (Participant 5)’

Participants in higher ages were unfamiliar with the word ‘up-cycling,’ and they could not relate it with the concept, thinking that the practice of their own is simple recycling, despite the fact that they already practice up-cycling unknowingly. They were ashamed of not knowing the meaning of up-cycling, as it is English, and felt uncomfortable when asked about the word ‘up-cycling.’ On the other hand, they smoothly talked about it in relation with their own experiences, when asked by correcting the word ‘up-cycling’ to ‘recycling of raised value.’

And the participants in low degree of understanding also said they naturally understood the difference between up-cycling and down-cycling as they shared various stories. Participants who never distinguished between the two, heard their various experiences with up-cycling and down-cycling also understood up-cycling upon talking about their own experiences, while actively participating in discussion, which showed that they are indeed interested in up-cycling with routine activities, though they did not establish the meaning of up-cycling in real life.

Path for acquiring information Participants said that the path they get information was through ‘the brand that sells up-cycling products’, ‘newspaper or magazine’, and ‘internet blog posts’.

Participants said that how they could distinguish up-cycling from recycling was because they understood the meaning of up-cycling by seeing the method of up-cycling. In particular, they said they were attracted to up-cycling by viewing various up-cycling methods and their results on internet blogs, and realized that there are many relatively simple up-cycling methods that they can practice in families.

‘Clicking on a unusual lug photo on the main of web-site ‘N’, I saw an article which introduced a method to make by twisting old T-shirt, saying that it‘s up-cycling. It was interesting and amazing. And seeing that it was simpler than I thought, I thought I could give it a try. (Participant 7)’

Participants who got information about up-cycling through its brand were much interested in up-cycling product itself, rather than the method and value of it, and said they got interested in up-cycling due to up-cycling product in that brand. And they recognized up-cycling brands as social enterprises. Though they think they contribute to society by purchasing up-cycling product, they felt attraction to the up-cycling product itself, and said they bought it thinking it is more excellent in design compared with existing product.

‘In newspaper I saw an article introducing up-cycling brands as social enterprises. It was the first time I encountered up-cycling. (Participant 13)’

‘While searching for the bag of ‘F’ on internet, I realized that they made it with old banner. After that I got to know the word up-cycling when searching for the photos. (Participant 24)’

However, not all participants who recognize up-cycling method, up-cycling brand, and up-cycling product could understand the meaning of up-cycling’s ‘recycling of raised value’ and distinguish it from down-cycling. It shows that in families they get more interested in the result, the product, rather than the meaning of up-cycling.

Relation between knowledge and practice of up - cycling As an important factor on the course of decision-making and information process, many studies (Howard and Schwartz 1980 ; Laroche et al. 2001 ) conducted research of knowledge as major influence factor which leads behavior. The knowledge about up-cycling can be defined as understanding of individual‘s various experiences and the concept and method for up-cycling, and personal idea of up-cycling (Kim and Kim 1999 ). But, this study about up-cycling practices in families showed that the degree of knowledge for up-cycling and practice of up-cycling have no direct relation.

On the other hand, it showed that the information of recycling materials and information about up-cycling weigh impact on practice of up-cycling. The knowledge about specific method could induce up-cycling, and when recognizing the information about securing of materials, skills for sewing machine, method to effectively use up-cycling product, the practice of up-cycling is positive. Most of participants telling the difficulty in up-cycling practice said ‘because of poorness in handling the instrument like a sewing machine’, and it matches with advanced study of Vining and Ebreo ( 1990 ) which compared the knowledge, motive, and demographic characteristics between recycling persons and non-recycling persons, saying that the more information and knowledge one has about recycling materials, method, recycling products, the more one is familiarized with recycling and frequent practice.

Dickson ( 2000 ) said about purchase behavior of up-cycling product that the more in understanding of up-cycling, the higher the interest in up-cycling product and the will to purchase, and the more they understand the ethical characteristics of product, the higher the trend to purchase that product. But this study showed that they purchase thinking that up-cycling product itself has better level than other existing product, design, and quality. Rather, they said that they became interested in up-cycling when purchasing up-cycling product and listening to the background story and materials of such product, even though they had no information about up-cycling.

Case of satisfaction/dissatisfaction of up-cycling in families

Satisfaction.

Scarcity Participants in the study mentioned the scarcity as the biggest value of up-cycling product. In particular, telling about the scarcity of materials, they said that it is the product made by recycling of wastes has scarcity, and it is attractive that it was uniquely made with unexpected materials. They said up-cycling product is fresh in standardized clothing, and it was an effective way to express their personalities.

Like this, up-cycling in families fostered productive spending upon necessity and subjectivity, not following the image made by others or society. And up-cycling product in families can express the originality of producers escaping from standardized ready-made product with analogue manufacturing style, and participants evaluated this as valuable with due to its handicraft characteristics and its scarcity.

‘It was really pretty to see what‘s made of unused jeans or bags, as it’s unique and original. It seems attractive to mend them according to the purpose we want. (Participant 12)’

‘Frankly, the clothes these days are really similar. They sell fashion product here and there all the same…. They all again make it when entertainers wear it. But, if I make mine as I want, it would be one and only, and it will cost less than the ones sold in the market. Participant 18)’

Emotional satisfaction It showed that up-cycling is a hobby and they get emotional satisfaction when searching for and being familiarized with new up-cycling method. They said that, as a hobby, up-cycling is relatively less in monetary burden and has merit to take it easy in daily life.

The course of searching for and planning up-cycling method could be the time to find ego and the relation with old articles and this led to emotional satisfaction. It is contrary to today‘s spending action which depends on fashion without identity, thus it could prevent abnormal hedonic spending.

‘First, I feel happy when I make this. Being idle at home, I get depressed, but when I do this I receive praise…. And it‘s like I’m pleased to see people liking what I made. (Participant 8)’

‘When there’s a lot of stress on my mind, I try to focus on making new articles while looking around my home, without minding anything. I can then forget worries, feeling myself as useful. It‘s a really good hobby for me. (Participant 26)’

‘Whenever I make up my mind at home, up-cycling is just doing it with things to be discarded. It‘s less in burden without big money. While unused things get accumulated at home… (Participant 25)’

Formation of affection Modern people had no reason to have affection to what they possess, as they easily buy things and discard them. But, participants said they got affection for clothes with up-cycling. They said they cannot easily discard up-cycling product they made and use them for a long time with affection.

‘As it is a necessary article that I made by myself, I get more attached to it. It‘s different from the articles I bought without thinking much. (Participant 27)’

Economic effect Practice of up-cycling brought economic effect. First, unnecessary spending is reduced as they can adjust spending desire through up-cycling, and it showed that there‘s economic saving effect because up-cycling re-uses articles to be discarded, such as using remaining cloth or clothes from past season.

‘Recycling at home, I feel like I‘m a smart housewife. Reducing waste and not discarding things…. (Participant 27)’

And up-cycling makes people share product with others, and further sell articles in citizen marketplace or open market with a much lower price, producing profits. Part of the proceeds from this sales go to food support project for alienated class, library program support project, causing much more positive economic effect, compared with a simple spending life.

Participants who affirmatively talked about economic effect were housewives. As they became interested in recycling and up-cycling, they said they developed a habit to look once more before discarding anything, and it helps in family budget through the reduction in purchase of articles. On the other hand, students in their 20s did not mention the economic benefits, but they have a rather negative recognition about spending for up-cycling. This, as a result, shows the difference in securing of up-cycling materials.

Dissatisfaction

Recognize time and energy as expenses Whereas they recognize the necessity and value of recycling and up-cycling in family clothing, they answered that too much energy and time is spent due to passive reason in practicing up-cycling. And compared with ready-made product minding on having spent time and energy, participants who think that buying ready-made product is much more economic was skeptic in practice of up-cycling.

‘Without hand skill I never think of or have courage to do it. I think it‘s better to buy cheap clothes, rather than putting so much effort (energy). It takes so long to make, and I can use them for a long time compared with not having much time. Buying necessary articles is fast and easy…. (Participant 6)’

‘Re-forming also becomes labor costly with the efforts, and nowadays labor costs are much too expensive. But, I think buying the clothes at shopping mall is convenient and cheaper and more effective. (Participant 12)’

Like this, participants understand positive effect of up-cycling, but short-term economy became an obstacle in families, they compared and chose economy for the time and energy cost of sustainability and up-cycling. The effect of sustainability should be understood in long-term view, and cheap product can be superior as families are more interested in direct and short-term economy. Therefore, it showed that emphasis only on long-term effect such as sustainability of up-cycling is difficult to activate up-cycling behaviors in families.

Methodological limit Participants who are afraid of in-person practice of up-cycling thought they should have sewing machine or specific skills for the practice of up-cycling, and were rather worried that their own practice of up-cycling could bring deterioration of quality, feeling burden in practice of up-cycling.

‘I am worried that I‘m not familiar with making things. I don’t dare touch it, thinking, what if I deteriorate the value when I fiddle with it. (Participant 21)’

Participants who think they have no hand skill or need specific skills for up-cycling of clothes were passive about up-cycling, but told their intention of participation, telling they need education program about up-cycling.

‘There‘s basic patterns in clothes. And it‘s like that some people are unable to re-form and don’t think of trying, as they can make use of lines and sense of wearing it, if they don‘t have pattern skills for it. (Participant 24)’

‘If there are much public programs for necessary skills for up-cycling, that is, sewing machine handling program, I‘d like to do it after learning them…. But, there‘s no such option for me. (Participant 11)’

And they showed negative opinion in repeated making of unnecessary product, as they practice only a simple method by ‘having materials’, ‘with limitation in making’, rather than practicing of up-cycling upon necessity. Beside this they talked about negative factors in practice, such as ‘space for up-cycling is insufficient’, ‘purchase new and side materials for up-cycling, as using of waste only is part when doing up-cycling’.

‘Doing up-cycling is not just using the things that are to be discarded, we should buy the materials for it. I’m not sure if I will wear it after doing up-cycling …. Then it’s ultimately a waste. (Participant 5)’

Limitation in quality We can see that quality dissatisfaction for recycling product was the biggest part, and the part of quality was the weakest in use of recycling product in the study of Choi et al. ( 2014 ). Participants in this study also talked about the quality in up-cycling product, many opinions were that they cannot utilize the function of product though they do up-cycling because of insufficient hand skills, or up-cycling product is ‘poor’, ‘unclean’, and that the quality gets deteriorated even with up-cycling due to weak durability as the product itself used for up-cycling material are produced according to fast-use and fast-discarding. Actually, the result of interview showed that they quality could be assured when the practice of up-cycling in families was commercialized with good-quality product materials, with high degree of satisfaction and long-term use.

And they answered that when doing up-cycling, the clothes were weak and unclean with trace of use in up-cycling material itself, falling the sense of satisfaction.

‘As it’s a good thing, I can do it once or twice. But, there‘s doubt if this is solid, and it was much insufficient in that aspect, because of feeling that up-cycling product was made by thinning out of something. (Participant 11)’

‘With many of SPA brand these days, doesn’t the re-forming itself with the cloth of SPA brand cause deterioration of quality? SPA brand is much thin and not very good in the cloth itself. The quality doesn’t look good as it is made so that the cycle rotates much too fast, and buying the cheap product in the market seems better than making something with such low price materials. (Participant 12)’

This study performed the research for the purpose of status of sustainable clothing and up-cycling in families. In particular, this study shared routine experiences of individuals in families in various ways through interaction of participants in comfortable atmosphere via group interview, and researcher suggested significant implication of such results by in-depth understanding of the attitude and experience of participants.

It showed that they lay stress on the practice of sustainable clothing in families, and make efforts for sustainable clothing in families, considering the family as subjective consumer. It showed that they make selective purchase of sustainable fashion products in families, washing and control for minimizing of environmental impact and energy consumption, and recycling and used articles trade, a way of life for sustainable clothing.

Participants talked about recycling as one of practice methods for sustainable clothing in families, in particular, up-cycling area expansion of sustainable clothing in families could be expected for ‘recycling of raised value’.

Participants thought that up-cycling would weigh positive impact on environment, and they could practice environmental sustainability by reducing wastes, as they actually do up-cycling with use of waste in families. And as up-cycling‘s way of life they practice qualitative consumption by reducing unnecessary spending, and further created earnings by selling up-cycling products made in families at citizen marketplace.

And up-cycling product is valuable with its scarcity, and could escape monotonous living by expressing their own personality, and enjoy high emotional satisfaction living as up-cycling becomes a hobby. Therefore, it showed that up-cycling raises cultural, social sustainability.

They said they cannot easily discard up-cycling product they made and use them for a long time with affection. Like this sustainable characteristics of up-cycling appeared in families, and it is thought that up-cycling will be helpful in creation of new values and developmental availability in sustainable clothing.

This study has its meaning that it raised the understanding of the attitude and aspect of sustainable clothing in families in psychological aspect, but has difficulty in generalization as it is a qualitative study targeting small group of participants. Therefore, quantitative research targeting large group of participants should be supported in future study.

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SS conducted a literature review and focus group interview, JK summarized the focus group interview results, and YN made the overall conclusion. All authors read and approved the final manuscript.

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Shim, S., Kim, J. & Na, Y. An exploratory study on up-cycling as the sustainable clothing life at home. Fash Text 5 , 14 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-018-0129-1

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European Journal of Marketing

ISSN : 0309-0566

Article publication date: 27 February 2020

Issue publication date: 27 February 2020

The sustainable fashion (SF) literature is fragmented across the management discipline, leaving the path to a SF future unclear. As of yet, there has not been an attempt to bring these insights together or to more generally explore the question of “what is known about SF in the management literature and where could the SF field go from there?”. The purpose of this paper is to bring together the field to identify opportunities for societal impact and further research.

Design/methodology/approach

A systematic literature review was conducted from the first appearances of SF in the management literature in 2000 up to papers published in June 2019, which resulted in 465 included papers.

The results illustrate that SF research is largely defined by two approaches, namely, pragmatic change and radical change. The findings reveal seven research streams that span across the discipline to explore how organisational and consumer habits can be shaped for the future.

Research limitations/implications

What is known about SF is constantly evolving, therefore, the paper aims to provide a representative sample of the state of SF in management literature to date.

Practical implications

This review provides decision makers with insights that have been synthesised from across the management field.

Originality/value

This review identifies knowledge gaps and informs managerial decision making in the field, particularly through serving as a foundation for further research.

• Sustainable fashion
• Ethical fashion
• Marketing ethics
• Sustainable business models

Acknowledgements

The authors declare there are no conflicts of interest in this study.

Mukendi, A. , Davies, I. , Glozer, S. and McDonagh, P. (2020), "Sustainable fashion: current and future research directions", European Journal of Marketing , Vol. 54 No. 11, pp. 2873-2909. https://doi.org/10.1108/EJM-02-2019-0132

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What Is Sustainable Fashion? The Environmental Impact and Future of the Fashion Industry, Explained

When it comes to “sustainable fashion,” there are many definitions, each looking at the environmental impact of the fashion industry from a different perspective. The main goal of all these approaches and different ways to measure is to reduce the impact of apparel production and waste on the environment.

What are the impacts of the fashion industry on the environment?

Water, land use, pesticides and waste — the global fashion industry touches on many aspects of the environment from the farming of raw materials, through the production phase to what happens to them when they are no longer “in fashion.”

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In data revealed by fashion and apparel industry NGO Textile Exchange, global fiber production nearly doubled from 2000 to 2022, when it hit 116 million tons, and is on track to top 147 million tons of garments made per year in 2030. That equals up to 100 billion new garments produced globally each year.

Coupled with the doubled production volume in that time, consumers halved the time they keep their clothing items. As micro-trends move along faster than ever, tossing out last season’s shirt means that most of these clothes — about 85 percent — end up in landfill. Globally, only 1 percent of garments are recycled and turned into new clothes.

The environmental impacts of clothing start at the beginning of the production process, using about 215 trillion liters of water per year, and creating about 20 percent of the world’s industrial wastewater pollution. Much of that comes from the dyeing or finishing process, like adding decorative whiskering to jeans.

And the fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10 percent of global carbon emissions, according to the United Nations and European Union estimates.

How can the fashion industry lessen that impact? Different materials, metrics and ways to address the apparel industry’s impact are part of the discussion.

Organic Materials

Organic clothes are produced from natural materials grown from non-GMO seeds without the use of pesticides or fertilizer. While cotton might be the most widely known and used material, bamboo, hemp, wool and linen are other fibers that can be grown organically.

Bypassing the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides helps protect biodiversity of the soil and the surrounding insects — think bees and other pollinators — as well as avoid the runoff that pollutes nearby lakes, rivers and ultimately into the water supply.

Look out for labels here — GOTS is the Global Organic Textile Standard is the most recognizable and well respected. Its two levels of labeling (“organic” and “made with organic”) require 75 and 95 percent organic fibers respectively. It also monitors wastewater treatment, chemical disposal and takes worker welfare into account.

Organic Content Standard, or OCS, looks at organic fibers in a textile throughout the entire supply chain, but has less focus on chemicals and working conditions. OEKO-TEX is the flip side , focuses on testing for harmful chemicals. Their organic certification launched last year, and has seven levels with various parameters.

Beware greenwashing here where brands use the word “green” or even colored labels to imply that a garment is made of organic materials.

Recycled Materials

While brands are installing “take-back” boxes in their stores to encourage recycling, the tech and facilities to recycle clothes are actually pretty limited. Only 12 percent of the material used for clothing ends up being recycled (and often downcycled into products like mattress filling), and recycled textiles, including cotton, made up less than 1 percent of the global market in 2022 according to Textile Exchange.

You’ll see recycled polyester on clothing labels, but 99 percent of that comes from old water bottles, not last year’s bubble hem skirt.

Since polyester is made from crude oil, new companies and brands are setting out to change that and reduce the use of virgin polyester in fashion. Los Angeles-based Ambercycle has created a recycled polyester with its Cycora material — and recently partnered with cult Scandinavian brand Ganni.

One of the biggest tech challenges is recycling blended textiles such as polyester and cotton mixes. Circ has a new method for recycling those into new fibers such as polyester or lyocell that can be mixed with virgin fibers.

There’s progress being made on recycled fabrics, but still a long way to go until they make up a large portion of fashion’s production.

Next-gen Alternative Materials

Next-gen leather alternatives are helping the fashion industry reduce the carbon emissions from the greenhouse gas and resource-intensive cattle industry. There are leathers made from grapes, cactus, mango or pineapple that can be made into garments or accessories. New companies are exploring unexpected sources every day — there’s even leather made from waste brewery grain.

Another method is to grow new leathers, mostly from mushrooms. Called mycelium, mushroom-based textiles such as Ephea and Lunaform have been used by luxury conglomerate Kering and its brands; Hermes has designed a bag with MycoWorks’ Reishi and Bolt Threads’ Mylo stepped out with an Adidas collaboration.

Other methods upcycle mushroom and shellfish waste to create a textile. Many of these are in the research and development stage, or have produced small quantities.

Companies such as Gen Phoenix, are recycling leather scraps and turning it into new fibers that can be turned into a sustainable leather alternative. Their product has been used to make handbags. Other biotech includes using seaweed to make T-shirts like in Keel Labs Kelsun fiber, or mimicking spider silk with protein such as Spiber.

Big brands are looking for new solutions, but most of the technology is still in the research and development stage, or early-stage growth with a few hero items under their belt. Many companies are scaling up with factories and bigger production facilities on the horizon.

Circular Fashion

The word “circular” is used in two ways when it comes to fashion: “circular economy,” which encourages repurposing or reusing items such as selling a second hand or vintage item, and “circular design” encourages designers and brands to think of a garment’s life cycle and how it will be disposed of. For example, if a cotton shirt is sewn together with metallic thread or embroidery, or using embellishments such as foil prints, it can’t be mechanically recycled.

“Circular design” keeps the recycling process in mind and uses materials and finishes that can be put back into the system more easily. The idea is to intentionally design to keep materials moving in a loop as long as possible — the dream of textile-to-textile recycling.

Secondhand, resale and vintage play a big part here too, keeping items in circulation for years instead of going straight to landfill.

Keeping things circular is an important key in the sustainable fashion debate. The ever-growing use of natural resources and extractive production, like using oil to make polyester or cutting down trees to make rayon/viscose, so keeping existing textiles in use as long as possible is more sustainable.

Upcycling or Using Deadstock

Upcycling is another method of keeping something in circulation by repurposing the original garment. Designers or just your average handy crafter take apart clothes and use them in creative new ways. These are often bespoke or one-of-a-kind creations, with their uniqueness adding value to the new wares.

Deadstock is the practice of using unsold or a brand’s surplus textiles and fabrics, thus diverting them from the dumpster. When companies buy too much for a season it goes unused and can sit for years. LVMH’s Nona Source is a great example — it sells on the unused rolls of fabric from its luxury houses. This can be a treasure trove for younger designers and small houses, or for one-season capsules that require smaller amounts of material to make a collection, while reducing waste.

Slow Fashion

Since fast-fashion brands tend to dominate the mall and main street, “slow fashion” brands have emerged as a direct response. These brands make high-quality, lower impact and timeless styles from lower impact materials. They’re often made-to-order or made in small quantities to avoid the overproduction-discount-dump cycle, and release only a few styles or collections a year.

Because of their small quantities, they often have great insight into their suppliers and can provide deep transparency on where and how their clothes are made so consumers are armed with information about the true impact of their purchases. One example is Swedish brand Asket, which gives an “impact receipt” with each purchase accounting for carbon emissions, water use and energy use from farm to rack for each garment purchased.

Fair and Ethical

While not “sustainable fashion” from an emissions or materials perspective, the terms fair and ethical are becoming increasingly important in the discussion. It’s another aspect to take into consideration — are brands and companies paying fair wages and protecting workers’ rights in the production process. It comes down to the idea that if workers’ were paid fair wages on a global scale, pricing would better reflect the true cost of an item and reduce consumers’ reliance on cheaper and cheaper goods.

Sustainability Scores

Sustainability scoring systems include the B-Corp. certification , which requires companies meet stringent environmental and social benchmarks, as well as provide certain commitments and promise transparency.

Most major fashion companies now publish annual impact reports where they lay out everything from their water and energy use in their own stores, look through their supply chains at factories abroad as well as the transport among other factors, to quantify the environmental impact of their goods. They lay out their goals, sometimes using murky language, or setting the timeframe far in the future.

These reports are a good place to understand a brand’s overall sustainability package, or to get a better idea of a company’s values. Sometimes a brand will produce a small “sustainable” collection that gets a lot of attention, but the rest of their clothes are made with conventional materials or at very polluting factories. Diving into their own data is a good way to keep tabs on your favorite brand.

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Sustainability: is it a strategic management research fashion.

1. Introduction

2. literature review, 3. materials and methods, 4. results and discussion, 4.1. identification of sustainability as a strategic management research fashion, 4.2. identification of areas contributing to the advancement of sustainability as a strategic management research fashion.

• Red cluster No. 1: strategic and innovation-driven sustainability. This cluster highlights the importance of sustainability in SM, with key themes such as sustainability ( n = 220), SM ( n = 65) and innovation ( n = 45). This emphasises how sustainability shapes strategy research. It influences leadership, climate change, project management, knowledge management, human resource management (HRM), industry 4.0, etc.
• Green cluster No. 2: operational corporate sustainability. This emphasises sustainability in regulatory, operational and competitive terms, focusing on SD ( n = 229), CSR ( n = 51) and environmental management ( n = 37). This cluster thus emphasises how academic research motivated by CSR initiatives and environmental compliance applies to sustainability concepts. The attention paid to corporate sustainability, economic and social effects, competition and SD suggests a wide involvement with the SDGs from different organisational perspectives.
• Blue cluster No. 3: crisis management and environmental economics. This focuses on strategic development in response to global disruptions and market dynamics, including strategic approach ( n = 63), pandemic ( n = 33) and stakeholder engagement ( n = 19). Thus, the keyword “pandemic”, along with the strategic approach, emphasises the need to take disruptions and resilience into account in academic research, together with stakeholders and business strategy.
• Yellow cluster No. 4: sustainable supply chain and resource management. This cluster focuses on sustainable supply chain management and resource efficiency, and emphasises the need to enhance supply chain sustainability and resource optimisation in SM. Among the topics covered are supply chain management ( n = 58), SDGs ( n = 21), circular economy ( n = 37) and waste management ( n = 21), highlighting academic research focused on waste reduction, circular economy, resource reuse and achieving the SDGs.
• Motor themes (upper-right quadrant): This quadrant covers CE, industry 4.0, environmental sustainability, sustainable supply chain management, digitalisation, project management and decision-making, COVID-19, SDGs, stakeholder theory, competitiveness, sustainability reporting and sustainable tourism, etc. themes. These themes are well developed and central to ongoing sustainability and SM research, reflecting their essential role in fostering future achievements and innovation. The high centrality and density of these themes thus indicate their importance and strong development in this area [ 106 ].
• Niche themes (upper-left quadrant): This includes themes such as competitive advantage, dynamic capabilities, resource-based theory (view) and firm performance. These themes are highly specialised and internally strong, but they need to be integrated into the more comprehensive research network. They are essential research areas but have a different broad impact and direct relevance to sustainability than motor themes. Accordingly, these themes show high density but low centrality, being well developed but relatively isolated [ 106 ].
• Emerging or declining themes (lower-left quadrant): This contains talent management, knowledge management and sustainability performance themes. They may represent new research areas or those that are losing popularity in academia. The future direction of these themes depends on their ability to gain prominence and integration into the broader research discourse. Consequently, they have a low centrality and density, suggesting they are either developing or becoming less important [ 106 ].
• Basic themes (lower-right quadrant): These themes can be described as a basis for research on sustainability and SM. Thus, they also serve as a foundation for further study in many areas. This quadrant includes themes such as sustainability, corporate sustainability and SD, SM, strategies, CSR, innovation and entrepreneurship. As a result, these themes are characterised by high centrality but low density [ 106 ].

5. Conclusions

Author contributions, institutional review board statement, informed consent statement, data availability statement, conflicts of interest, appendix a. overview of the most relevant analysed articles in the fields of sustainability and strategic management based on query 2.

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Sedovs, E.; Volkova, T. Sustainability: Is It a Strategic Management Research Fashion? Sustainability 2024 , 16 , 7434. https://doi.org/10.3390/su16177434

Sedovs E, Volkova T. Sustainability: Is It a Strategic Management Research Fashion? Sustainability . 2024; 16(17):7434. https://doi.org/10.3390/su16177434

Sedovs, Edgars, and Tatjana Volkova. 2024. "Sustainability: Is It a Strategic Management Research Fashion?" Sustainability 16, no. 17: 7434. https://doi.org/10.3390/su16177434

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